"The Nardin family were the Michael Phelps of mechanical accuracy." Marking The Hours With Matthieu Haverlan, MD, Ulysse Nardin

Would you ever think of comparing the precision of luxury watchmaking to the frenzy startup culture? Well, one man did and he is none other than Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director, Ulysse Nardin. He describes Ulysse Nardin as “the watchmaking start-up of the industry only much, much older.”

In the ever-evolving landscape of horology only a few brands have managed to balance innovation and heritage quite like Ulysse Nardin. Once a dominant force in the world of marine chronometers, the brand today is writing a new chapter, one that feels refreshingly bold, technical, and unafraid to challenge convention. In a conversation with The Hour Markers, Matthieu gives a glimpse into the watchmaking philosophy of the Maison while sharing the challenges it had to overcome to release the record breaking Diver [AIR].  

A Legacy of Innovation, Reimagined

Innovation at Ulysse Nardin isn’t new, it’s in the brand’s DNA. Matthieu is quick to point out that the company’s forward-thinking attitude stretches back more than a century. “If it's possible, it's done. If it's impossible, it will be done,” he quotes, attributing the words not to a Silicon Valley founder, but to Paul David Nardin, the son of the brand’s founder, who led Ulysse Nardin into the world of marine chronometry. That relentless drive led the brand to supply over 10,000 marine chronometers to more than 50 navies worldwide, a technical achievement Matthieu likens to Olympic dominance. “The Nardin family were the Michael Phelps of mechanical accuracy,” he says with a smile.

Today, that mindset is being channeled into modern watchmaking, where Ulysse Nardin continues to lead from the front particularly in areas like silicon technology and high-horology complications. The Freak, launched in 2001, wasn’t just a bold design it marked the first use of silicon in a mechanical movement. “Now silicon is used in microchips. We were there 25 years ago,” says Matthieu 

When Independence Breeds Courage

For Matthieu, independence isn’t just a buzzword. It’s a foundational advantage that allows the brand to take creative risks and think long-term. Case in point: the recent decision to scrap a planned relaunch of the Marine collection after two years of development. “It was not UN enough. It was not daring enough. It was missing that element of innovation. That’s a decision you only take when you have a long-term vision. When you have skin in the game,” he shares.

Rather than release something that felt safe, the team pulled back choosing to rework the concept entirely, even if it meant delaying the launch. Haverlan adds. That philosophy also extends to their in-house suppliers, like Donzé Cadrans for enamel dials and Sigatec for silicon components. Interestingly, more than 90% of Sigatec’s production is sold to other watch brands. “We don’t talk about it much. But our responsibility extends to the industry. We want to support the craft, not just ourselves,” he says.

The New Diver [Air]: A Technical Powerhouse

The clearest expression of Ulysse Nardin’s renewed ambition might just be the new Diver [Air] five years in the making and developed from the ground up as a high-horology sport watch. Everything about it speaks to the brand’s modern identity. The movement is crafted entirely in titanium (except the escapement, which is in silicon), making the watch incredibly light just 52 grams including the strap. Add to that a water resistance of 200 meters, shock resistance up to 5,000 Gs (the force generated by a pro golfer’s swing), and a design that’s 80% skeletonized, and you’ve got a watch that’s not just innovative it’s unapologetically Ulysse Nardin. “Manufacturing a case in titanium is kindergarten. Manufacturing a movement in titanium is like winning the Champions League,” Matthieu jokes.

For a brand with such technical depth, Ulysse Nardin also manages to strike an emotional chord especially through its partnerships. Whether it’s the Vendée Globe or the Gumball 3000, the collaborations reflect more than just visibility. “Vendée Globe is very UN. It’s an adventure. It’s a personal journey. Just like what we do in watchmaking.” 

Looking Ahead

So where does Ulysse Nardin go from here? For Matthieu, the answer lies in continuing to challenge, innovate, and surprise while staying true to the soul of the brand. It’s a fitting vision for a brand that once navigated the world’s oceans and is now navigating a new era of horology with the same fearless precision. “We’re here to pioneer. To advance. That’s our mission as watchmakers,” concludes Matthieu.