Could Quiet Achievers Steal The Spotlight From Icons At GPHG?
6 min read
Every year, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) shines its spotlight on the biggest names in watchmaking. But tucked between the familiar giants are the real surprises- the brands you’ve probably never heard of, the ones that make you stop mid-scroll and wonder, “Who are they, and how did they land on this stage?” These are the hidden gems, the indie rebels, and the horological alchemists who quietly craft watches that defy expectations.
Part of the fun of GPHG is exactly this: stumbling across a name that sounds more like a secret society than a watch brand, and realizing they’ve built something bold enough to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the industry’s giants. These are the watches that carry a sense of mystery, like whispered rumors in a collector’s lounge, waiting for the curious to take notice. This year’s shortlist has its share of these under-the-radar contenders and trust us, they’re worth knowing.
ROBOT
ROBOTIC ONE marks a daring new chapter for the Czech brand ROBOT, blending cultural heritage with horological artistry. Conceived by acclaimed Swiss designer Marcus Eilinger, the watch reimagines the very origin of the word “robot” coined in Prague over a century ago through a bold, asymmetrical case that echoes the stylized face of a machine. More than just a timepiece, it is a wearable narrative that fuses Czech storytelling with Swiss precision. Its quick-change strap system, vertically brushed galvanic dial with luminous indexes, and hand-finished skeleton hands add both technical flair and everyday versatility, signaling the arrival of a new generation of mechanically refined and visually expressive watches.
For Marcus Eilinger, the project was deeply personal and artistic. Inspired by Josef Zajíček’s vision for ROBOT and the legacy of Czech playwright Karel Čapek, who introduced the word “robot” to the world, Eilinger sought to create a watch with its own character. The strong, asymmetrical design feels original and futuristic while staying grounded in the hallmarks of Swiss craftsmanship—subtle finishes, thoughtful integration, and mechanical excellence. As Eilinger describes, ROBOTIC ONE as a design manifesto, a bold mix of story, function, and aesthetics that brings identity to the wrist while standing as a proud chapter in his legacy as a watch designer.
KERBEDANZ
Kerbedanz’s Maxima GR8 feels less like a watch and more like a crystalline sculpture built to tame light itself. Carved entirely from a single block of monocrystalline sapphire, its case is pure transparency: part tonneau, part octagon, part sphere -capturing and diffracting light like a faceted gemstone. Every surface has been cut with optical precision, requiring more than 80 hours of diamond machining and polishing to achieve its seamless geometry. Through this glass-like body, the Maxima GR8 offers a stage for its most audacious feature: a one-minute central flying tourbillon, spinning like the beating heart of a living organism. This accelerated regulator mirrors the restless tempo of our world today. Seen from any angle, it becomes the axis of everything much like a vortex around which time itself organizes.
Yet for all its symmetry, the Maxima GR8 delights in disruption. On the back, an off-centered rose gold rotor breaks the balance just enough to give the piece rhythm and warmth, an organic counterpoint to its crystalline rigor. Beneath the surface lies a bespoke automatic calibre powered by twin barrels, delivering a 65-hour reserve and steady torque to the tourbillon. It’s a feat of engineering as much as an artistic manifesto where every detail is a dance between discipline and freedom, geometry and light, transparency and gravity.
AMY EUJENY
AMY EUJENY steps boldly onto the stage with the AE TN002 Inhouse, a high-end sports watch that signals not just ambition but history in the making. Inspired by Triton, the ancient Greek sea god, its octagonal titanium-and-ceramic case echoes the Tower of the Winds in Athens, while its six visible screws and articulated lugs add a sense of mechanical poise.
Inside, the self-developed AE1009-5 movement which is the very first designed and created in South Korea introduces a rare linear balance-and-escapement layout, doubling as both an engineering breakthrough and a visual centerpiece. With rose gold bridges, heat-blued steel, and sculptural detailing, this debut is less a watch and more a declaration that Korean horology has arrived.
Quiet Club
From the heart of Tokyo comes Fading Hours by Quiet Club, the debut creation of F.P. Journe Young Talent Award winner Norifumi Seki. It’s a watch that treats time not as a taskmaster, but as a companion to focus. At its core is a mechanical gong-and-hammer alarm, reminiscent of a minute repeater, yet designed not to chime the hours but to gently guide you into concentration, then release you when it’s time to move on. A white-gold dial doubles as the gong, Grand Feu enamel markers add quiet refinement, and a bowl-shaped titanium case curves elegantly around the wrist. Even its hidden alarm hands and monopusher crown keep the complication as discreet as it is poetic.
11i11 Saat
The 11i11 saat (11 past 11 time/watch) brand started with a simple observation that 11 written with (Western) Arabic numerals and 2 (II) written with Roman numerals look similar. It all could have ended with a simplistic printed dial put on top of a throwaway watch, but then the pandemic lockdowns lead to escalating project’s ambitions. The result are watches which are minimalist at first glance, but with many playful watchmaking details revealed upon closer look. It also led to two first-ever uses of the crown: as part of the 8 o’clock index and as an analog reminder.
The watch is powered by a Sellita SW400-1 Special Grade automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, offering functions for hours, minutes, seconds, date with a custom date wheel, and even a mechanical reminder set through the crown. Its 41.4 mm 316L stainless steel case measures 48.2 mm lug-to-lug and just 10.0 mm in thickness, making it versatile on the wrist. A sapphire crystal with triple anti-reflective coating on the underside ensures clarity, while hour and minute hands treated with underside Super-LumiNova provide low-light legibility. The watch is water-resistant to 5 ATM and pairs with HIRSCH straps or Staib mesh metal bracelets, both sized at 20 mm, offering refined comfort and style. Its Macedonian founder, Petar Kajevski, had no background in watchmaking, and yet perhaps that’s the point: innovation often comes from the outside.
Holding Their Ground
Even if these names are not yet household staples in the watch world, the GPHG participants prove that these independent and lesser-known brands are creating timepieces that can confidently stand shoulder to shoulder with the industry’s most established giants. Their inclusion highlights not just the depth of creativity shaping modern watchmaking, but also a reminder that innovation, artistry, and excellence can come from every corner of the horological landscape.
