Crystal meets the case…
MB&F watches are wrist machines that you either love or you just don’t. There is really no grey area here. That being said, I think it is safe to say that Maximilian Büsser’s machines are the mechanical cartographers of the multiverse. From star-cruisers to jelly fish to bulldogs, MB&F machines can transport you to an unimaginable universe, merely by glancing at your wrist. Well, that’s how I felt after the launch of the HM10 – The Bulldog.
Over the last 15 years MB&F has introduced several complications and noteworthy horological mechanisms to its collection. However in terms of combining prestige, tradition and innovation, the one that did stand out was the Legacy Machine Perpetual that was launched in 2015. This year MB&F has added a younger, fresher and sportier version of the MB&F LM Perpetual, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo.
So let’s dive right into what makes this machine so unique. At first glance you just can’t miss the striking bold colours on this one. There is of course the blue CVD dial plate, the black PVD dial plate but what I just can’t seem to get enough of is the bright mandarin orange CVD dial plate. That is a definite first for a MB&F machine. Colours that are a result of PVD or CVD (physical or chemical vapour deposition), are not simply applications of ordinary pigments. PVD/CVD coatings were originally reserved for utilitarian purposes, providing a thin layer of protective material for reasons of tribology, or to extend the longevity of mechanical parts.
Aesthetics aside, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo has had quite a few modifications in comparison to its predecessor. This 44mm limited edition stunner has a zirconium case, a relatively challenging material that has however previously been used for MB&F’s former amphibians such as the HM3 Frog and the HM5. The Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo features a no-bezel construction, with a domed sapphire crystal which is fused directly to the case. The increased openness of this design highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of MB&F LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components — surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.
Boosting the tactile comfort and ease of adjustment, the previously circular pushers that were used to adjust the perpetual calendar have now been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators. Now although I wouldn’t necessarily label it a sports watch, the Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo, available with a rubber strap, is water resistant upto 80 meters, which is even more than that of the Aquapod. Not that I would personally ever dive into a pool with an Evo, but it is definitely a noteworthy feat. Another small, but essential, detail of implementing a screw-down crown is the débrayage of the winding stem, disengaging the crown from the winding mechanism when it is pushed in and tightened, which eliminates the chance of manually over-winding the mainspring barrel.
“The MB&F LM Perpetual EVO is not a watch for sports. It is a watch for life”, says MB&F. However, given the aesthetics and overall perception of this watch, I would assume it could be an integral part of an active lifestyle. Which brings me to what’s beating inside this machine.
Another new element of the MB&F LM Perpetual EVO is the FlexRing. Described as an annular dampener fitted between case and movement to provide shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes and to protect this very complicated movement, making it one of MB&F’s most robust machines.
My thoughts, well I have to admit, I am a tad bit biased to the MB&F machines. I can’t seem to think of a single machine that didn’t leave me speechless and in awe. That being said, the MB&F LM Perpetual EVO has definitely made its way up on my wish list. A perpetual calendar is arguably the most pragmatic and utilitarian of all the high complications. Although, in most cases it is a function that is associated with classicism and elegance, I love the fact that Max has chosen to take it up a notch, well in the true spirit of MB&F. It is refreshing to see that the new LM Perpetual EVO is more than just a new colour addition to the previous machine.
Did you know:
Zirconium is a metal rarely used in watchmaking due to the extreme requirements involved in machining this high-risk material. When zirconium is finely divided into a powder, as might happen when it is being worked into different forms by industrial tools, it is known to combust. During conventional machining processes, when metallic particles are constantly being created and dispersed through the environment, zirconium has proved extremely dangerous. The creation of zirconium metal parts has to be conducted under controlled, secure conditions.
MB&F: LEGACY MACHINE PERPETUAL EVO
Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is available in three variations of 15 pieces each:
- Zirconium case with orange CVD dial plate
- Zirconium case with blue CVD dial plate
- Zirconium case with black PVD dial plate
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Galvanic black dials with both SLN numerals and hands (except for the leap year and power reserve)
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Screw down crown
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 70
Water resistance: 80m / 8 ATM / 270 feet
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Strap & buckle
Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle