Universal Genève Unveils A Tribute To “The Nina” Compax

The new Tribute to Compax collection revives Universal Genève’s iconic chronograph through craftsmanship and couture. At its heart are handcrafted bund straps by Japanese leather artisan Satoru Hosoi—his first collaboration with a watch brand. Trained in Japan and Italy, and later working at Hermès and Moynat, Hosoi brings his Parisian artistry to watchmaking with straps crafted from three interlocked pieces of calfskin. Unlike the traditional detachable bund, these are seamlessly sewn together, merging technical precision with couture finesse. Each bears the Universal Genève and HOSOÏ-PARIS signatures in refined shades of brown, black, taupe, and olive—each thoughtfully paired with white or red gold cases. Created in Paris, they symbolically return to where Nina’s Compax story first began.

The Tribute to Compax also highlights another enduring craft—grand feu enamel. Each dial, fired at over 800°C and layered multiple times, captures a depth of color impossible to reproduce by machine. The collection spans six dials in shades from crisp white and deep black to translucent blue and brown, accented by a vivid red chronograph hand echoing Nina’s original design. Inside beats the restored Caliber 281, a manual-winding, column-wheel chronograph that once defined Universal Genève’s golden era. Reviving it today bridges past and present—honoring history while signaling the brand’s renewed pursuit of precision and timeless beauty.