Geneva Watch Days 2025: 2,320 Threads Of 24K Gold Enliven The Louis Erard X Wire Art Fil d’Or

Louis Erard has never shied away from challenging the norms of traditional watchmaking. With the new Fil d'Or Louis Erard x Wire Art, the brand takes this idea literally. They bend, weave, and layer steel into a form of art. This isn’t just a watch; it’s a technical sculpture that tells time. It is restricted to only 99 individually numbered pieces worldwide. A modern grail for those who understand that scarcity is part of its beauty. 

The Dial: A Canvas of Fire and Wire

At first glance, the dial exudes refinement. It features Grand Feu enamel, an age-old technique of firing powdered glass at high temperatures until it creates a smooth, luminous surface. However, a closer look reveals a twist. Each dial is layered with stainless-steel microfilaments, expertly shaped by the artisans at Wire Art. No two designs are alike. These threads are not merely decorative. They are cut, polished, and tensioned with surgical precision. The steel wires create a dynamic play of light and shadow over the glossy enamel base. From some angles, it appears architectural; from others, almost alive. It’s not a dial to be glanced at once. It’s one you can get lost in. On a deep black lacquer dial, 2,320 threads of 24K gold — three times thinner than a human hair — trace the Métiers d’Art signature cube motif. The trompe-l’œil geometry brings the dial to life, catching the light to reveal subtle facets and a mesmerizing sense of depth.

The Movement: Swiss Muscle Under the Hood

Inside functions the Sellita SW261-1, a solid automatic caliber that has gained popularity among independent brands. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a 38-hour power reserve, this movement is known for its reliability and ease of maintenance. It allows the artistry on top to shine without any compromises. The small seconds hand at 6 o’clock serves both a functional and aesthetic purpose. Its steady movement glides across the wire filaments like a metronome in action. This detail subtly reminds us that despite its modern dial, this is still a watch — one that honors the basics of watchmaking.

The Case: Familiar, Yet Sharper

The watch is housed in a 39mm stainless-steel case, featuring a mix of brushed and polished surfaces that reflect the wire’s industrial appeal. The lug design gives it a sleek profile while the domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating offers an unobstructed view of the enamel and wire display beneath. With a practical water resistance of 50 meters, it combines art with wearability.

Why This Matters

Independent watchmaking thrives on collaboration, but this piece represents more than a co-branded logo. It merges two crafts: watchmaking and metal sculpture. Wire Art’s skillful work with steel perfectly complements Louis Erard’s expertise in enamel. The result is anything but restrained; it’s bold, experimental, and delightfully intricate. For collectors, this isn’t just about telling time; it’s about possessing a piece of engineering that transforms raw materials into poetry. It’s about enjoying the tactile experience of steel, fire, and enamel, brought together in a way that no mass-market luxury brand would attempt.