Rami Malek, Willow Smith, Troye Sivan, Maisie Williams, and Jackson Wang represent Pasha de Cartier.
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Are Watches Gender-Neutral? Cartier Breaks Stereotypes

THM Desk
26 Jul 2022 |
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There has been a rise in the use of an androgynous aesthetic in recent years. More and more individuals today are starting to see that clothes and accessories from any gender may be worn by anyone. Rather than limiting us, our accessories should encourage us to explore our individuality.

Many industries are being disrupted by shifting ideas about gender, from males modeling corsets on the runway to paper towel commercials that highlight women's strengths.

Cartier Tank
Cartier Tank

For many years, the watch industry primarily served males, but in more recent decades, the sector has turned its focus to women. The Twenty-4 at Patek Philippe, the Lady Tourbillon at Franck Muller, and the Lily smartwatch at Garmin are just a few examples of the unique designs aimed at female collectors rather than simply downsizing men's watches.

Some brands, however, are rethinking the binary gender distinction by shifting their product categories to focus on body type rather than sex.

One such brand which has actively taken initiatives to introduce gender-neutral watches is Cartier watchmaking. Instead, Cartier's director of style and patrimony, Pierre Rainero would rather have a conversation about why males don't understand it: even if the luxury brand's watches are primarily purchased by female customers, they are intended to be agnostic to sexual orientation. He says it all goes back to Cartier's founding design philosophy, which concentrates so much on original designs that they may be intriguing for…

Let’s look at these gender-neutral watches!

Cartier Crash

It's possible that the record-breaking prices achieved by the rare model of the Crash watch at auction are attributable to the fact that the model is popular among celebrities. Kanye West has flaunted his Crash on social media and wore it at a visit to David Letterman's Netflix series My Next Guest Needs No Introduction in 2019, while rapper Tyler The Creator wore one in a 2021 music video for the song LUMBERJACK. West's ex-wife Kim Kardashian West has also been pictured wearing a Crash, as has rapper Jay-Z, who wore a new, skeleton-like version that was debuted in 2015 to a film premiere last year.

Cartier Lond Crash
Cartier Lond Crash 1967 auctioned for $1,503,888 at an auction

No one knows where Crash's surrealism form came from. The name "Crash" may have been inspired by a customer who brought in a Baignore, a traditional oval-shaped Cartier watch, to the brand's London flagship store for repair after the heat had extensively deformed it from a car accident. The curved watch dial is reminiscent of the limp clocks in Salvador Dali's 1931 artwork The Persistence of Memory.

Cartier Crash (London Edition)
Cartier Crash (London Edition)

It's impossible to find another timepiece that compares to this one. The case's contours are delicate and seductive. The organic, free-form design is unlike any other watch casing out there. Cartier Paris brought back the watch in 1991, but this time they only produced 400 of them in yellow gold cases measuring 38.5 mm by 22.5 mm and with the word "Paris" on the dial instead of "London." In 2013, it expanded its diamond bracelet watch form for female wearers. In 2015, however, it made a remarkable comeback in a skeletonized form. The stylized Roman numerals were reflected in the design of the movement's bridges by Carole Forestier. The 45.32mm x 28.15mm platinum model debuted in 2015, followed by the same size in rose gold in 2016.

(Left) Kanye West wearing the Cartier Crash London & (Right) Kim Kardashian wearing the Cartier Crash Paris
(Left) Kanye West wearing the Cartier Crash London & (Right) Kim Kardashian wearing the Cartier Crash Paris

Cartier Tank

The Tank, the ultimate dress watch for connoisseurs and aesthetes of all stripes, has been a staple of the Very Important Objects canon since its inception in 1917. Its thin case, which Cartier claims was inspired by the aerial perspective of a World War I battle vehicle, and the wide treads on either side of the hull are said to have served as design inspiration. The Tank's design was brazenly contemporary, with a rectangular face that broke with the norm of the time and was accented by blued-steel hands, Belle Époque Roman numerals, and a sapphire cabochon on the crown. Through the decades that followed, the watch grew to symbolize an impressive roster of influential people, including Cary Grant, Muhammad Ali, and Princess Diana. Kim Kardashian reportedly paid $379,500 at auction in 2017 for a vintage version originally owned by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, and musician Tyler, the Creator went from wearing $11 Casio watches to acquiring a major Cartier collection as part of his glow-up.

The Tank watch was created by Louis Cartier, who designed it after the tanks of WWI battlefields.
The Tank watch was created by Louis Cartier, who designed it after the tanks of WWI battlefields.

Cartier has released a squadron of Tank iterations, some of which are longer, squarer, or more contorted than the original, evoking Dali's melting timepieces. Its original, stretchy shape has been customized with a wide variety of accessories, from steel bracelets to limited-edition skeleton cases and faux leather straps created from apple refuse. These geometric and aesthetic explorations have not only helped the Tank stay on the groundbreaking of technology and popular culture but have also helped establish entirely new standards.

Loyal to its avant-garde spirit, the Tank Must introduces a photovoltaic movement that looks to the future
Loyal to its avant-garde spirit, the Tank Must introduces a photovoltaic movement that looks to the future

Pasha de Cartier

The Pasha de Cartier has a completely unique look compared to any of the other watches made by the manufacture. When you compare this cult classic to its more formal relatives like the Tank, the Baignoire, and the Santos, you might not immediately think of its full, rounded case and that adequately proportioned bezel.

Pasha de Cartier
Pasha de Cartier

We also note the departure from the traditional Roman numerals that are a hallmark of Cartier watches in favor of more modern, stylized Arabic numerals. The screw-down crown on the chain is also a feature that can't be found on any other timepiece. Cartier has made Pasha a focal point of its 2020 launch schedule, describing it as a comprehensive collection of 24 SKUs that includes both gender-neutral models and pieces designed specifically for Cartier's primary female client.

Louis Cartier's lifetime client the Pasha of Marrakesh inspired the name of the brand's newest timepiece, which debuted in 1985. The design was based on a model from 1943 and was oversized, waterproof, and housed entirely in a yellow gold case.

Pasha de Cartier Grille
Pasha de Cartier Grille

The Pasha watches, like the most recent Cartier collections, have quick-release replaceable straps and bracelets, giving buyers more options and merchants more opportunities for repeat business.

Although the Pasha was first designed for males and was influenced by a monarchy, it quickly became a favorite of women everywhere. Photographed onto men's shirt cuffs, this watch has graced the covers of women's magazines. During the 1990s, it was even the watch of choice of style magazines.

With its distinctive codes and extraordinary design, the Pasha watch is for those who think big.
With its distinctive codes and extraordinary design, the Pasha watch is for those who think big.

Pasha de Cartier has been a popular symbol due to its unique appearance. With its bold contrast of rounded and sharp edges, they made this watch for the limelight and will give you hours of pleasure. The reason is that, as we established from the outset, it was never meant to blend in.

Cartier Santos Dumont

The Santos-Dumont is part of a fresh wave of unisex watches released by watch companies in response to the increasing purchasing power of women and their need for larger dials, more automated clocks, and fashion partnerships.

Jeremy Piven wearing Cartier Santos-Dumont watch in steel, $4,100 (Source: Getting Images/ Courtesy of Cartier)
Jeremy Piven wearing Cartier Santos-Dumont watch in steel, $4,100 (Source: Getting Images/ Courtesy of Cartier)

Cartier is reintroducing the Santos-Dumont XL with three new metal options: steel, steel, yellow gold, and rose gold. This is a manly accessory, and despite popular belief, all the Santos models (both vintage and modern) are incredibly thin wristwatches. Cartier installed a hand-wound 430MC caliber, which is actually a Piaget ultra-thin movement. The result is a Santos-Dumont XL that is only 7.5mm thick and oozes unmistakable class. Keeping up with this trend toward "unisexification," new Santos models feature dials in a range of colors and sizes to appeal to a wide range of consumers.

Ballon Bleu de Cartier

Less than fifteen years have passed since the first Ballon Bleu de Cartier was produced. However, it exudes the stature and gravitas of an antique timepiece. This classic quality is instantly recognized as belonging to Cartier. There are no sex or cultural barriers to the Ballon Bleu. The Ballon Bleu is one of the rare timepieces that is not exclusively designed for either men or women. The Ballon Blue watch has been a hit with politicians, celebrities, and watch collectors since it was first released in 2007.

Ballon Bleu de Cartier
Ballon Bleu de Cartier

Cartier's commitment to detail pushes the Ballon Bleu beyond the boundaries of a conventional round watch. The model's convex bezel, crystal, and caseback emphasize the rounded design, as well as its short lugs. The end result is an instance with unrivaled three-dimensional symmetry, like a pebble in a stream. This unique design makes it stand out more prominently on the wrist than a conventional round watch. As an added bonus, it offers superb convenience for the user. The classic Ballon Bleu may not have a lot of extra features, but its design strikes a nice, understated balance between style and function.

OSCAR ISAAC wearing Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch in 18-k rose gold, $16,300 ( Source: Getty Images/ Courtesy of Cartier)
OSCAR ISAAC wearing Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch in 18-k rose gold, $16,300 ( Source: Getty Images/ Courtesy of Cartier)

A lot of well-known people have been spotted wearing this one-of-a-kind timepiece because of its timeless elegance and gender-neutral design. Many famous people, from politicians and royals to actresses and musicians, wear Ballon Bleus. Kate Middleton's wrist is where the design has attracted the most media coverage. However, President Clinton has a number of versions, including a Ballon Bleu, in his collection. Additionally, Julianne Hough, Johnny Depp, and Amber Heard all consider it a personal favorite.

In today's modern world, dividing watches into separate categories for men and women is unnecessary, sexist, and archaic. Nobody should be told they can't wear a certain look because it's not "appropriate" for their gender. Cartier certainly is coming out as an epitome of elegance.