Chanel Acquires 25% Stake In MB&F, Expanding Its Watchmaking Family

Chanel has acquired a 25% stake in MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends), known for its avant-garde timepieces. This move marks another strategic step in Chanel's long-term vision to solidify its position in the luxury watchmaking sector. The acquisition of MB&F shares adds another prestigious name to Chanel's impressive roster of watchmaking investments. This portfolio already includes:

Bell & Ross (invested in 1998)
Romain Gauthier (invested in 2011)
F.P. Journe (invested in 2018)

We are encouraged to see established brands collaborating with independent watchmakers, a promising sign of the watch industry’s future. This convergence represents more than just creative synergy, it reflects a shift toward a more inclusive and dynamic horological landscape. As major groups open their portfolios to embrace the ingenuity and craftsmanship of independent creators, the industry as a whole stands to benefit. This trend fosters innovation, diversifies offerings, and strengthens the watchmaking community, ensuring that traditional artistry and cutting-edge design continue to thrive together. It’s fantastic news that bodes well for both enthusiasts and the industry’s evolution.

While the exact ownership levels in these brands remain undisclosed, the addition of MB&F signals Chanel's continued commitment to diversifying its horological expertise.

Analyzing the Strategic Implications: Preserving Craftsmanship: Frédéric Grangié, Chanel's president of watches and fine jewelry, emphasized that this investment aligns with the brand's strategy to "preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and expertise." By partnering with MB&F, Chanel gains access to unique watchmaking skills and innovations.

Maintaining Independence: Crucially, MB&F's founder Maximilian Büsser and his partner Serge Kriknoc will retain majority control (60% and 15% respectively). This structure allows MB&F to maintain its creative autonomy while benefiting from Chanel's resources.

Long-term Vision: As MB&F approaches its 20th anniversary, this partnership ensures the brand's longevity. Büsser described it as a "natural evolution" that secures the company's future without compromising its independent spirit.

Ecosystem Synergies: The deal opens up potential collaborations within Chanel's watchmaking ecosystem. This could include shared resources, technological exchanges, and possibly even co-branded initiatives in the future.

No Pressure on Growth: Interestingly, Max Büsser noted that this investment allows MB&F to continue its path "free of any pressure on growth." This suggests that Chanel values MB&F's current positioning and isn't seeking to dramatically alter its production or market approach.

Chanel's Watchmaking Journey: From Première to Powerhouse
Chanel's involvement in watchmaking dates back to 1987 with the launch of its Première watch. Since then, the luxury house has made strategic moves to strengthen its position:

1993: Acquisition of G&F Châtelain, a Swiss manufacturer
2019: Purchase of high-end parts maker Kenissi

These investments, coupled with its stakes in independent watchmakers, demonstrate Chanel's commitment to vertical integration and diversification within the watchmaking industry.

MB&F and F.P. Journe: Kindred Spirits under Chanel's Wing
The addition of MB&F to Chanel's portfolio creates an intriguing parallel with F.P. Journe, another independent watchmaker partially owned by the French luxury house. 

While F.P. Journe is celebrated for its technically sophisticated movements and classic aesthetics, MB&F is renowned for its unconventional designs and conceptual approach to timekeeping. This diversity within Chanel's watchmaking family showcases the brand's appreciation for different expressions of horological artistry. Chanel's investment in MB&F represents a carefully considered step in its ongoing strategy to strengthen its position in high-end watchmaking. By partnering with established independent brands, Chanel is not only diversifying its portfolio but also preserving and nurturing unique watchmaking talents.