Geneva Watch Days 2025: MING Celebrates Its 8th Birthday With The 57.04 Iris

Birthdays are for reflection. Some throw parties, some cut cakes, and some, if you’re MING, unveil a watch that captures the industry’s attention. After eight years, the brand that started as a small group of enthusiasts, has created over 15,000 watches, built a community of more than 8,000 collectors and friends, released over 75 models across three design styles and earned two GPHG awards along the way. That alone could define a successful career. But MING has never settled; it always asks, “What’s next?” This time, the answer is the MING 57.04 Iris—a significant debut for the brand's fifth-generation design and a watch that boldly marks its anniversary.

From Experiments to Art Deco Sculptures,

To appreciate the Iris, you must look at its history:

• First generation: an experimental phase, where MING was discovering its visual identity.
• Second generation: maximalist and ornate, featuring hollow flying blade lugs that made wrists resemble glimpses of futuristic architecture.
• Third generation: a clean shift to minimalism, simple monobloc design with touches of ribbon surfaces.
• Fourth generation: skipped entirely, respecting Asian superstitions and quietly archived.
• Fifth generation: the present; an unapologetic, sculptural take on Art Deco.

And here’s the magic: Generation 5 doesn’t hold back. It commands attention. The Iris showcases a case that feels like MING flexing all its hard-earned muscles. Stepped lugs made from nine individual pieces fit together perfectly. Each surface gets a different treatment—polished tops, satin-brushed sides, so light plays across the wrist like a lively companion. The watch is 40mm of stainless steel but with its compact 47.8mm lug-to-lug and careful balance, it fits comfortably on any wrist. With 100 meters of water resistance, you have a piece of art that handles everyday wear with ease.

The Heart: A Destro Monopusher

For founder Ming Thein, there’s always been a goal: a chronograph that wouldn’t cost a fortune. Since 2017, he has quietly searched for the right case design and movement to achieve this. The 57-series case provided part of the solution while a partnership with Sellita contributed the rest.

Enter the Sellita for MING Cal. SW562.M1. It features manual winding, about a 60-hour power reserve, central seconds, and a 30-minute counter at six. The interesting twist is its destro configuration, which places the crown and monopusher on the left side of the case. This design choice allowed MT to choose a larger, more tactile crown and pusher—ones that feel satisfying to use without digging into your wrist. Turn it over and the movement finishing is unmistakably MING: anthracite plates highlighted by a sculptural 4N-coated three-quarter plate, proving that careful attention to detail remains important, even at “accessible” prices.

The Soul: Iris in Bloom

Despite its technical brilliance, the 57.04 Iris truly embodies its name on the dial side. You don’t just look at it; you fall into it. Start with the deeply dished and fluted dial, crafted with precision. Add floating indices that aren’t printed on the dial but laser-cut into the top sapphire crystal, filled with MING’s signature Polar White luminous compound. Even the chronograph minute counter is a spectacle, its layered design allows Super-LumiNova X1 to glow brightly, making night as captivating as day.

However, the real draw is the color-shifting dial. Depending on the angle and the light, it shifts between turquoise, violet, and countless shades of blue. It is always changing. This effect comes from a complex coating used on a machined brass base, but discussing it technically skips the essence. On the wrist, it feels vibrant and elusive like observing light refracted through a gemstone that never provides the same answer. That’s why it’s called the Iris: not just for its radial pattern, but for its depth, intensity, and dynamic quality. It’s a dial that doesn’t just sit there; it actively engages with you.

Presence with Purpose

The Iris isn’t just about art. The brushed-polished steel case carries weight equal to the dial, and the Universal Bracelet in stainless steel flows seamlessly from lug to wrist. Prefer leather? The included anthracite goat strap with tuck buckle adds a touch of understated luxury. Either way, the watch looks as good as it feels: confident, tactile, and sculptural.

Unlike many over-designed anniversary pieces, the Iris is made to be worn. With 100 meters of water resistance, the monopusher adds a playful touch, and its 40mm size ensures it doesn’t remain locked away, it belongs on wrists. After eight years, MING has created a watch that goes beyond just an anniversary piece. It’s a bold statement. The 57.04 Iris conveys: we’re not finished experimenting, we’re not done refining, and we certainly won’t stop surprising. This isn’t a watch that quietly joins a collection. It makes a statement with its light, color, and design that feels almost architectural.

Price: CHF 6,250 | INR 682,925