The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 Reinterpreted In A Trio Of Variations

Jaeger-LeCoultre expands its portfolio of high complications with three new interpretations of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985. Two versions are crafted in Platinum (950/1000) with striking blue dials one enhanced by a polished bezel and the other by a diamond-set bezel while the third is offered in 18k pink gold (750/1000) with a warm brown dial. At the heart of all three is the Calibre 985, a movement created in 2013 that unites a perpetual calendar and a moon phase accurate for 122 years with the visual poetry of a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring.

Inspired by the quest for precision

From the time of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre, the pursuit of accuracy has defined the ethos of La Grande Maison. His insistence on precision in every component—from the construction of calibres to the finishing, assembly, and decoration of cases and dials—continues to guide the Manufacture today. Calibre 985, featuring a tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, reflects this legacy of relentless research into timekeeping performance.

The regulating organ, made up of the balance wheel, hairspring, and escapement, governs the accuracy of a watch. For decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has studied the effect of tourbillons and the impact of differently shaped hairsprings, developing deep knowledge of how their geometry influences oscillations. The expansion and contraction of the hairspring regulate the balance wheel’s swing, and concentric oscillations are vital to minimising the disruptive effects of gravity and magnetism.

Through this research, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers discovered how the shape and terminal curves of a hairspring determine its behaviour. Depending on its design, each form be it S-shaped, spherical, semi-spherical, or cylindrical produces different oscillatory patterns. Being among the very few Manufactures capable of shaping hairsprings in-house gives Jaeger-LeCoultre a distinct advantage in fine-tuning precision.

The cylindrical form, first conceived in 1776 and revived in modern watchmaking by Jaeger-LeCoultre, offers particular benefits. Its coils terminate in in-curve attachments and contract concentrically, resulting in enhanced isochronic performance. This ensures stable timekeeping in every position, regardless of the amplitude of the balance wheel or the level of power reserve.

Calibre 985 – the precision of complications and decoration

Comprising 431 components, Calibre 985 is an in-house movement of exceptional sophistication. Its cylindrical flying tourbillon alone is made up of 83 components and weighs only 0.386 grams thanks to its titanium construction. This ultra-light mechanism, paired with the concentric beating of the cylindrical hairspring, delivers stability and accuracy. Alongside the tourbillon, the calibre integrates a perpetual calendar and a moon phase requiring no adjustment for 122 years.

On the reverse, the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the Haute Horlogerie finishes for which Jaeger-LeCoultre is renowned: blued screws, sunrayed Côtes de Genève, snailing, and hand-bevelled bridges. The 22k rose gold (916/1000) winding rotor is decorated with sunray engraving and bears a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, honouring his breakthrough in precision machinery for interchangeable components.

Exceptional cases in platinum and pink gold with signature dials

The Master Grande Tradition case, reserved for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most complex calibres, is itself a work of engineering and artistry. Composed of more than 80 parts, it features screwed-in lugs and a mix of polished, brushed, and micro-blasted surfaces.

In pink gold, the case radiates warmth against a soft brown dial. In platinum, the cool-toned metal is paired with a rich blue dial, enhanced either by a polished bezel or, in the gem-set edition, by 72 baguette-cut diamonds totalling approximately 3.4 carats. This sparkling setting requires 15 hours of meticulous work in the Manufacture’s own Métiers Rares™ atelier.

A hand-bevelled bridge spans the dial, while the tourbillon sits slightly recessed for both visual depth and functional design. Subtle contrasts enliven the dial: micro-blasted minute tracks, opaline sub-dial interiors that shift in the light, and calendar numerals and letters laser-engraved in relief for three-dimensional clarity. Precision is highlighted through a 20-second arc beneath the tourbillon aperture, where three blued hands on the cage measure 20-second intervals as it completes a rotation every 60 seconds.

A testament to horological mastery

The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 exemplifies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s devotion to innovation and precision. Its movement combines multiple high complications with the most refined decoration, while its case and dial showcase both mechanical sophistication and artisanal craft. Offered in pink gold with a brown dial and platinum with blue dials—one polished, one diamond-set—these new interpretations reaffirm La Grande Maison’s ability to harmonise technical mastery with timeless elegance.