Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel Reinterpreted With An Anthracite Enamel Dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin collection represents the essence of the contemporary dress watch. In 2025, this emblematic line welcomes a new creation the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel. Presented in a limited series of 50 pieces, the watch features a dial in anthracite grey Grand Feu enamel, elevated by a hand-guilloché sunray pattern of 180 rays and framed in an 18k pink gold (750/1000) case. It is a piece that embodies the Maison’s philosophy of merging mechanical innovation with artistic savoir-faire.

A showcase of Métiers Rares craftsmanship

The anthracite grey enamel dial sets a dramatic stage for the tourbillon and date display, while light plays across the guilloché sunrays with every movement of the wrist. Creating the 180-rayed motif demands immense skill each line requires six passes of the rose engine lathe, amounting to 1,080 perfectly executed cuts. With no margin for error, the master guillocheur must guide every stroke by hand, ensuring precision in spacing, straightness, and alignment from the centre to the edge of the dial.

The date sub-dial is further distinguished with azurage, a circular guilloché pattern that creates a contrasting texture. Once the engraving work is complete, the dial passes into the hands of the enameller, who applies five layers of Grand Feu enamel. Each layer is individually fired at 800°C and carefully cooled, gradually building up the intensity and depth of the anthracite hue. This patient, exacting process gives the dial its luminous finish and enduring character.

A tourbillon built on decades of expertise

Since Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced its first tourbillon calibre in 1946, the complication has played a central role in the Maison’s pursuit of precision. The tourbillon, devised to counteract the effects of gravity on the escapement, is one of watchmaking’s most delicate yet powerful inventions. Over nearly 80 years, the Manufacture has pioneered new tourbillon architectures and innovated with different hairspring forms, an achievement made possible because Jaeger-LeCoultre remains one of the rare Maisons to shape hairsprings entirely in-house.

Driving this new creation is the latest generation of Calibre 978, first launched in 2009 when it won an international chronometry prize. The movement has since become Jaeger-LeCoultre’s benchmark tourbillon calibre and was comprehensively updated in 2019 with the benefit of new technologies. It consists of 77 finely finished components, including a titanium cage that weighs less than half a gram. To ensure exceptional stability, it is fitted with a two-level flat hairspring whose attachment points are curved with precision to optimise the regularity of oscillations.

The tourbillon is secured beneath a pink gold bridge, adorned with traditional Haute Horlogerie finishing. Bevelled angles, straight graining, and carefully drawn flanks have all completed by hand and reflect the Maison’s commitment to craftsmanship at the highest level.

The union of beauty and precision

With its hand-crafted anthracite enamel dial, intricate guilloché work, and the refined Calibre 978, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel captures the very spirit of La Grande Maison: a dedication to technical virtuosity balanced with timeless aesthetics. Offered in a strictly limited edition of 50 pieces, it stands as both a work of art and a masterpiece of mechanical engineering.