Marking The Hours With Anne-Gaëlle Quinet, Head Of Complications At Audemars Piguet On Watch Complications & More
4 min read
Anne-Gaëlle Quinet brought her extensive knowledge and experience when she joined Audemars Piguet as a Complications Expert on April 1, 2021. With her robust technical expertise, customer focus, and infectious enthusiasm, she quickly became part of the AP family. As Head of Complications, she leverages her vast expertise and passion for complex watch mechanics to promote high-complication timepieces. Her deep understanding of minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and other intricate features allows her to connect with clients on a subject she not only excels in but loves to share.
We caught up with her to discuss her role at Audemars Piguet and the world of complications! We’ve heard several terms in the industry but what does the head of complications stand for? Anne explained, “My role is to promote Complications to clients and to support markets in their sales. In addition, with my team, we have to make sure that all communication and client experiences about Complications are up to our standards”
Brands are leaning towards different variations in their collections. Is there a trend towards combining high complications like minute repeaters with sports watches and more accessible collections? “From our perspective, we have been producing models called Grande Complication on our Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections for several years. Many of our Complications have been implemented on Royal Oak Concept which is the playground for innovations and has a very sporty look. We can certainly observe a trend of offering very complicated watches in sports collections which meet a demand”, she added.
The term “Complications” could mean anything. In which case could complex gemsetting techniques be considered a "complication" in luxury watches. “The term complication in the watch industry implies only the movement and not the external parts. Ancestral craft techniques such as enamel, guillochage, or engraving are not considered watchmaking complications but they require particular know-how that very few craftsmen/women master to perfection.” says Anne.
We’re all familiar with different parts of a watch. But what defines a complication? “By definition, a Complication is a watch that displays additional functions to hours and minutes. At AP we categorize them as of the Perpetual Calendar and above including Tourbillon, Tourbillon combined with Chronograph, Split-seconds chronograph, Minute Repeater, and Grande Sonnerie”, she explained.
Complicated watches, such as those with intricate complications like tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters, often appeal to collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate the craftsmanship and technical innovation involved. But will the current preference for simpler designs coexist with the continued appreciation for complex and sophisticated watchmaking? Have watchmakers already invented most of what can be done within the limitations of current technology? Anne said, “Not from my point of view. Today we reinterpret complications that were invented several centuries ago. Now our goal is to work on the materials, ergonomics, and ease of use of our models, even the most complex. We have a history of never standing still and we have great minds in the Company… for sure great surprises are to come.”
Which then brings us to the question if mainstream luxury watch brands are still investing significantly in developing innovations and breakthroughs. Or is most R&D focused on improving existing complications? “Nowadays, both are very involved. At our site in Le Locle and in the Manufacture our master watchmakers work in constant collaboration with our engineers, one does not go without the other, which was not the case in the past”, she further added.
Lastly, with watches no longer being a necessity, what drives innovation in new complications today? Is the motivation mainly marketing campaigns or are there other factors at play? “In the past, there was a real use and need for our customers. Today what drives us is to create contemporary watches dedicated to our collectors passionate about mechanical art… and they are many. Aesthetics is decisive in clients' choices however the watchmaking technical part brings prestige and life into a beautiful design. Some clients purchase for the aesthetic of the watch and some for the complexity.”, says Anne.
At Audemars Piguet, they bring both together because they have technical expertise, an innovative mindset, and a sensitivity for design!>
