Top 5 Watch Brands You Can't Afford To Miss In 2024
5 min read
Evolutions within the horology realms are subtle. Although watchmaking excellence keeps on upgrading perpetually, it is the collecting hype and market economics that steal the limelight. While established Maisons indulge in an omnipresent legacy addition and are excessively mindful of tradition, the emerging artisans command admiration by pushing the boundaries of mechanical sophistication.
The year 2023 was a monetary roller coaster for the watch industry and we witnessed consistent price corrections pushing the markets for a return to pre-Covid levels. At the artisanal forefront, colored dials were the talking point and the watchmaking geniuses gave us some truly remarkable timekeeping complexities while celebrating a shift (more like a return) to smaller case sizes. And then there was BlancpainXSwatch celebration of the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms.
Anticipated Developments for The Year 2024
The time is ripe to be delighted by peering into the crystal ball and weaving forecasts for this year in the world of watches. Will we finally see Rolex available at retail or another one of collabs between H. Moser & Cie and MB&F is a question, only time will answer.
While we daydream of a hype independent market course for the industry and fantasize about the revival of the GMT Master or a platinum GMT-Master ll for its 70th anniversary, here are the top 5 brands to watch out for the year 2024:
Tag Heuer
Tag Heuer went through a brooding phase before emerging with renewed vigor in 2023. With an undeniably rich legacy to carry forward, the luster lacking period of the brand transformed into a meticulous reinvention with rollouts like the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox. Across the new Glassbox range, Tag Huer served hints for the future direction of its products.
The Carrera-style makeover could easily be reciprocated along other product lines from the brand. With a strong heritage to leverage for the Maison’s marketing and outreach strategies, 2024 will be a year to reinvent for Tag Heuer and it is poised to captivate the fervor of enthusiasts, potentially positioning the brand as a compelling choice alongside the likes of Tudor, Breitling and Longines.
Grand Seiko
In an illustrious industry embodying the highest order of craftsmanship and engineering, it is the Swiss who have long reigned supreme. Grand Seiko emerges as a lone formidable contender which not only challenges the traditional dominance of Swiss watchmaking, but sets standards in terms of accuracy and attention to detail all with a unique and compelling narrative.
Cultivating a heritage founded upon elegance in simplicity, Grand Seiko continues to excel in its mastery of textured dials. Its masters at the Micro Artist studio in Shiojiri gave the world the SBGZ009 in platinum. Nestled within a flawlessly engraved case mirroring the serene beauty of a snow-covered birch forest, its metallic textured dial unfolds like a harmonious symphony, captivating wearers with the intricacy of its surfaces.
For 2024, the artisanal masters housed at the Shinshu Watch Studio will continue to Showcase Japan’s rich cultural heritage giving it a center-stage expression with traditional Japanese craftsmanship. One cannot deny it being a pleasant aside from the sometimes “too mainstream” Swiss watchmaking craft. As Grand Seiko continues to ascend, it seeks to offer a refreshing perspective on what defines horological excellence.
Carl F. Bucherer
Rolex’s acquisition of Bucherer, its significant retail partner from nearly 100 years, makes the crown break distance from the public business retail engagement. Previously, Rolex only supported, rather than being engaged in selling watches to the general public. One aspect of this merger is the acquisition of watchmaker Carl F. Bucherer, transforming Rolex into a triple-brand portfolio.
Celebrated as the pioneer in successful development of the peripheral rotor, Carl F. Bucherer is an accomplished watchmaking house with movement manufacture competence hallmarked by chronometers, floating tourbillons and minute repeaters.
Carl F. Bucherer stands ready to be saturated by the hysterical hype that Rolex garners. Although the brand has flown under the radar till now, this acquisition will breathe new life into the Manufacture and allow an uninterrupted exhibition of its abundant proprietary technology. So, being optimistic about it for the next year is a natural response.
Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward is that type of a watch brand that has been left unnoticed for years. Well, they might have been nice watches, but in a cosmos of innumerable stars, they failed to shimmer as bright.
Christopher Ward releasing the C1 Bel Canto chiming hour watch towards the end of 2022 was akin to Hyundai launching a supercar. Good cars, they definitely are, but super - well that sounds like an overstatement. And when they build it better than many supercars and make it cost as little as a Santro hatchback, they have the recipe for a winner.
Their line-up of integrated bracelet sports watches, The Twelve sparked widespread acclaim making it one of the most talked-about timepieces of the year along with the C1 Moonphase. Recently Christopher Ward won the 2023 GPHG “Petite Aiguille” award for the Bel Canto proving better than timepieces from the likes of Bulgari and Tudor.
The year 2024 marks the anniversary for the brand and contrary to what many might think, Christopher Ward is going anywhere but down. We are hopeful for more surprising releases from the microbrand.
Universal Geneve
The inks are yet to dry about the news of Breitling’s acquisition of Universal Geneve. A glorious brand that has shaped the perspective of revered collectors like Auro Montanari, popular by his pseudonym John Goldberger, Universal Geneve is a bona-fide king of the vintage among collector communities.
Purist enthusiasts couldn’t be more excited about Breitling’s plan to revive Universal Geneve to its former glory. If that means a rebirth of icons like the Polerouter or the Tri-Compax, then 2024 will be a year of endless delight.
As we eagerly anticipate the unfolding chapters of the new year, these brands are poised to shape and redefine our experiences, offering not just products but narratives that resonate with our passion.
In a marketplace teeming with possibilities, these are the watchmakers to watch out for this year.
