The shimmering ocean, the pool water, the glacier ice—anything that is turquoise is a source of inspiration—it generates happy feelings and a sense of well-being. Some of the most common mental images associated with the popular color turquoise include plunging into refreshingly cool waters on a hot summer day, a mountain vista with turquoise-blue glaciers, the blue-green sea with dappled sunshine and so many more…
The independent manufacturer Moritz Grossmann unveils a new, expressive Date Turquoise edition of its popular Date model.
The turquoise guilloché dial of this timepiece is its most striking feature, limited to 18 pieces, it is designed by Kari Voutilainen in Val-de-Travers, Switzerland, in tandem with the prestigious dial manufacturer Comblémine. Exciting, artistic, and very stylish, the guilloché on the main dial and subsidiary seconds are in focus and the case is composed of polished stainless steel making it another innovative design choice for the watch.
Royal art of Guilloché
The art of guilloché dates back centuries, but only the most skilled practitioners can achieve today’s renaissance. It was developed from the skill of woodturning and spread through the upper classes of Europe during the 16th and 18th centuries.
The dial is carved with a geometric design of thin lines using a guilloché machine. Keeping the depth and spacing of your lines consistent requires intense focus and a sharp eyesight. This is the only method that allows for the creation of the illusion of flawless regularity. When the diamond is used to polish these exceedingly thin grooves, the resulting light reflections are spectacular.
The dial and the hands have a blue and turquoise color scheme. Subsidiary seconds are made of pure silver, and the guilloché dial features a unique finish. At different times of day and from different perspectives, the light casts a dynamic interplay of nuanced turquoise tones, evocative of sunbeams dancing across a pool of water.
Minute markings have been shifted slightly inward to make room for the full date scale, which now goes from 1 to 31. The blue numbers on the dial stand out vividly against the white background. A silver ring with dot markings for the hours and minutes is included. The guilloché’s iridescent turquoise and the stainless steel case come together to form a unified whole, thanks to the seamless integration of colors and textures.
Date Turquoise’s lance-shaped hands are made and completed by hand at the factory before being annealed in blue to complement the watch’s circumferential date scale. The date indicator, in the shape of a blued bracket, is also painstakingly made by hand.
Caliber 100.3 with jumping date display – adjustable in both directions, including just before midnight
The date display, a complication much in demand and talked about by watch connoisseurs, is a comparatively recent development in the history of the mechanical wristwatch. Only at the start of the 20th century did the first wristwatches with date hands start to appear.
A unique aspect of the Date Turquoise is the caliber 100.3 with a jumping date display. It is a combination of precise, legible display and mechanical sophistication coupled with a high level of convenience. The complete date scale from 1 to 31 and the unusual bracket shape of the date marker underpin the elegance and functionality of the Date Turquoise.
One special feature is that the time and date can be adjusted just before midnight and straight after midnight. The hand is positioned exactly on the right date via a click spring. In addition to the precise jumping date display, this date adjustment benefits from the fact that the switching finger does not interfere with the switching wheel except for the jump to the next date, a process that lasts a matter of milliseconds. As such, the date can be adjusted forwards and backward at any time while the movement carries on running.
At 10 o’clock, there is a separate setting crown that can be used to adjust the date, for instance at the end of the month. This crown cannot be accidentally turned because it is inactive in its regular position. Pulling off the crown allows you to change the date. The date can be set by rotating the crown in either direction while the movement keeps ticking.
German craftsmanship at its finest, the Schönstes Deutsches Handwerk
The watch’s sapphire crystal back provides an equally eye-catching splash of color on the device’s reverse side. The Caliber 100.3 is a work of art committed to perfection, with a Grossmann balance, a ratchet wheel with 3-band snailing, a hand-engraved cantilevered balancing cock with a regulator’s arm, and a Grossmann micrometer screw. The finest polishes and cuts make the entire set glitter in a myriad of ways. Violet screws that were hand annealed complement the German silver, steel, and gold tones beautifully.
Grossmann’s push-button hand-wound manual winding mechanism
The hand setting mechanism in the in-house developed manual winding with pusher has been refined to prevent two potential issues: the introduction of extraneous particles during the adjustment process and the accidental alteration of the hands when the crown is pushed back into position.
The net retail price of the Date Turquoise is EUR 42,500 approximately INR 33,60,687, and only 18 will ever be produced. The limited production timepiece is tied in with a gorgeous hand-sewn strap of black alligator leather.