Presenting the “Petite Aiguille” category of Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) awards. A category that requires its watches to be within a retail price between CHF 2,000 and CHF 8,000. Smartwatches too are admissible in this category.
Here are the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) academy’s nominations for the “Petite Aiguille” watch of the year.
1. BULGARI – OCTO ROMA AUTOMATIC
The 41mm automatic mechanical version with three hands and date is powered by the in-house Calibre BVL 191 featuring a power reserve of 42 hours. The dial is both easy to read and visually appealing, while its finish adds a touch of sophistication with a Clous de Paris motif. This timepiece features a black dial, completed by Super-LumiNova® hands and hour markers for optimum legibility and a visually appealing effect. This new Octo Roma model comes equipped with an interchangeable wristband, affording the wearer even greater freedom and versatility.
2. TUDOR – BLACK BAY
This new Black Bay is Master Chronometer certified by METAS and features an updated design with a “T-fit” clasp. The Manufacture introduced its version of the Black Bay in 2015. The original Black Bay debuted in 2012 with a burgundy bezel. Now in its third iteration, it foreshadows the line’s potential in terms of design and technology. Black Bay, an iconic design from TUDOR’s collection, demonstrates the brand’s mastery of a particularly stringent standard for chronometry and magnetic field resistance. Read more here
3. LOUIS ERARD – LE RÉGULATEUR LOUIS ERARD X KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN
This cyclops named Likho does not come from Greece, but from the Balkans, and symbolises the evil eye in Slavic tales. Konstantin Chaykin was inspired by this character for this new carte blanche. This collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin links two different worlds: affordable Swiss watchmaking and creative haute horlogerie. The watch, limited to 178 pieces, is based on the architecture of Louis Erard’s signature regulator, with a central minute, an hour at noon and a small seconds at six o’clock. The eye of the Likho has become the focal point of the watch, while the small seconds is represented by the devouring mouth of the ogre. The central minute hand crosses the dial to represent the monster’s arm. The strap is made of black toad to further underline the unexpected and gently monstrous side of this timepiece.
4. CHRISTOPHER WARD LONDON – C1 BEL CANTO
The C1 Bel Canto is a watch that demonstrates Christopher Ward’s ambition and commitment to bringing haute horlogerie to as many people as possible. The Bel Canto features what’s called a passing chime, or Sonnerie au Passage complication, which translates as ‘Passage of Time’. The key to the Bel Canto is FS01, a new chiming module named after current technical director Frank Stelzer. Ten years ago, CW’s first master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke, designed JJ01. This was a module created to offer the most accurate jumping-hour function possible. Johannes achieved this by spreading the load evenly over an entire hour.
5. HABRING2 – CHRONO-FELIX TOP-SECOND
With the recently launched Top-Second chronograph, the Habring² manufacture is continuing its tradition of helping to revive complications that were sometimes thought to have been forgotten. A look inside the timepiece, where the manufacture calibre A11FC ticks, reveals the mechanism. There, you’ll find a small, spinning propeller with two blades. Every 5 seconds, the entire propeller rotates; however, because of the two blades, the seconds signal flashes every 2.5 seconds on the dial at 9 o’clock. The chronograph’s 30-minute counter is located at 3 o’clock.
6. MASSENA LAB – MAGRAPH BY MASSENA LAB AND RAÚL PAGÈS
Massena LAB presents the Magraph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès, their first collaboration with Raúl Pagès. The M660 is a manual-winding, 4Hz movement, with a power reserve of 60 hours, and 21 jewels. The M660 features a handsome, broad plate with Côtes de Genève finishing and hand-chamfered anglage on its plates and bridges, all of which is visible through its exhibition caseback. Tucked under its balance wheel is the hidden mark of Raúl Pagès: “La tortue,” or tortoise. Surrounding this stamped signature are overlapping decorative circles of perlage. This degree of movement finishing demonstrates a level of artistry and skill that is more akin to a luxury timepiece three times its price.
Read more about GPHG 2023 here