Breguet's Type XX Chronographe 2075 Charts A Bold Return To Its Civilian Roots
8 min read
Watches and military history have always been deeply intertwined. The wristwatch itself owes its origin to wartime necessity—think back to the Anglo-Burma War and the First Boer War, when soldiers began modifying pocket watches with rudimentary soldered lugs to wear them on the wrist. This practical adaptation sparked an entirely new category of timekeeping. Jump ahead about seventy years, and the world had moved on from the devastation of World War II.
Yet, in a period of relative peace, the French government issued a call for robust, precise chronographs. The result? The Type 20—a watch shaped by the technical standards of the French military and aesthetically influenced by German pilot’s chronographs of the 1930s and ’40s. Today, vintage Type 20s are prized by collectors and have inspired countless reissues and tributes—none more prominent than those from the brand most closely associated with the design. No points for guessing who.
After World War II, the French Ministry of Defence introduced the Type 20 specification—a set of technical criteria for pilot’s chronographs intended for military use. While the exact details of the original brief remain somewhat unclear, it's widely believed to have included requirements such as a black dial with two sub-registers, luminous hands and numerals, a case diameter close to 38mm, a flyback chronograph function with a 30-minute totaliser, a bi-directional rotating bezel, a daily accuracy within eight seconds, a power reserve of at least 35 hours, and the ability to perform a minimum of 300 chronograph operations before requiring servicing.
Several manufacturers were contracted to fulfill this specification, and original Type 20 models were produced under nine different brand names—ten, if you count sterile dials with no branding. Among these, four brands are generally acknowledged as the primary players: Auricoste, Breguet, Dodane, and Vixa, with others acting as sub-contractors. There have been whispers about a “Boullier” Type 20 as well, but neither the watches nor any formal agreement with the French government have ever been substantiated.
Breguet remains the most renowned and collectible among them. Vintage Breguet Type 20s frequently fetch six-figure sums at auction. Under their military contract, Breguet was tasked with delivering 2,000 units. Interestingly, the earliest military-issue Breguet Type 20s were all sterile-dialled—saving the Breguet-branded versions for civilian distribution. Even Breguet’s own production was partially outsourced, most notably to Mathey-Tissot, who played a significant role in bringing these now-iconic chronographs to life.
There’s no shortage of heritage chronographs in the modern watch landscape. But when Breguet speaks, collectors listen. And with the Type XX Chronographe 2075, launched as part of the brand’s 250th anniversary, Breguet isn’t merely reviving a design—it’s telling a richer story. One of aviation, innovation, and audacious restraint.
The 2075: A Civilian Reincarnation with Military Backbone
Let’s call it what it is: Breguet is flexing. The Type XX 2075 is not a cautious evolution of last year’s steel-cased Type XX 2067 and 2069. Instead, it’s a bold statement dressed in Breguet gold—an exclusive alloy with soft blond undertones—anchored in a rare, yellow-gold reference from 1955 (No. 1780). These new models come in two versions: one with a black anodized aluminium dial, the other with a solid 925 silver dial, the latter limited to just 250 pieces.
At 38.3mm in diameter and 13.2mm thick, the 2075 wears like a whisper from the past—mirroring the original dimensions down to the decimal. This is a watch not merely “inspired by” history, but one that almost revives it.
In a market saturated with automatic chronographs, Breguet’s decision to fit both 2075 models with hand-wound movements (Calibres 7279 and 7278) is daring—and entirely deliberate. This is the first time we see a manual version of the high-frequency calibre 728, introduced in 2023. Running at 5 Hz (36,600 vph), these movements don’t just look vintage—they perform with ultra-modern accuracy and reliability.
The black-dialled version houses the Calibre 7279, featuring a 15-minute counter, while the silver variant includes the 7278 with a 30-minute counter and tachymeter scale. The finishing on both is sublime, right down to the engraved tribute on the caseback—depicting the Breguet 19 aircraft and its legendary 1930 transatlantic route from Paris to New York.
Dial Design: Stealth vs. Shine
Here’s where the 2075 asserts its dual personality. The black aluminium dial—a material choice paying homage to Louis Breguet’s pioneering use of Duralumin in aircraft design—is stealthy and technical. The anodisation process delivers a rich matte finish that enhances legibility, with subtle nods to aviation, such as the “Al” inscription at 7:30.
On the other hand, the silver dial model revels in a more formal, almost regal character. The vertical brushing adds dimension, while the discreet “Ag925” marking subtly reveals the precious metal beneath. Add in blued steel hands, gold hour markers, and a tachymeter, and you have a piece that straddles instrument precision and elegant nostalgia.
Comparing to the 1950s Originals—and the 2023 Relaunch
The Breguet Gold Case: A Modern Material with Vintage Sensibilities
Both 2075s feature cases crafted in Breguet gold, an exclusive alloy debuted recently with the Classique Souscription 2025. It balances tradition and innovation, with a blend of silver, copper, and palladium. Even the bi-directional bezel doesn’t escape meticulous attention: black markers for the aluminium dial, blue for the silver—each accent chosen to harmonise with its respective dial and strap (gradient black or blue calfskin).
What makes the Type XX 2075 truly interesting is what it suggests about Breguet’s evolving philosophy. This is not a brand racing to chase trends. It’s one willing to take the slow road back—methodically, intentionally. The use of manual movements, the faithful sizing, and the ultra-limited production all point toward a deeper shift in how Breguet defines its icons.
Where others slap heritage dials on oversized cases, Breguet offers restraint. Where competitors lean on marketing, Breguet leans on its museum archives. At CHF 36,500 for the aluminium dial and CHF 38,000 for the limited silver dial, the Type XX 2075 is priced for the collector, not the casual enthusiast. But then again, so was the original.
CEO Gregory Kissling puts it plainly: this isn’t about nostalgia, it’s about authenticity. The 2075 isn’t trying to be cool. It doesn’t compromise for contemporary tastes. There’s no oversized case, no automatic winding, no unnecessary embellishment.
Technical Specifications:
- Type XX Chronographe 2075 (Black Aluminium Dial)
Ref: 2075BH/99/398
Price: CHF 36,500
Movement: Calibre 7279 (manual-wind)
Limited Edition: No
Dial: Black anodized aluminium, a first for Breguet. The metal choice is a nod to Louis Breguet's pioneering use of Duralumin in aviation.
Luminescence: Beige Super-LumiNova with green emission.
Markers & Hands: All in 18K Breguet gold.
Layout: 15-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock; small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Flyback Function: Yes (operated by pusher at 4 o’clock).
Diameter: 38.3 mm
Thickness: 13.2 mm
Water Resistance: 5 bar / 50m
Case Material: Breguet gold (exclusive alloy of gold with silver, copper, and palladium).
Strap: Gradient black calfskin with gold pin buckle (interchangeable).
Caseback: Sapphire crystal engraved with “BREGUET 250 YEARS” and a hand-engraved Breguet 19 aircraft + transatlantic route (1930 Paris to NYC) - Type XX Chronographe 2075 (Silver Dial)
Ref: 2075BH/G9/398
Price: CHF 38,000
Movement: Calibre 7278 (manual-wind)
Limited Edition: Yes, 250 pieces (individually numbered)
Dial: Solid 925 silver with vertical brushing.
Tachymeter Scale: Yes—exclusive to the silver version.
Chronograph Counter: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.
Hands & Markers: Applied 18K Breguet gold Arabic numerals and hands with blued steel chronograph hand.
Strap: Gradient blue calfskin strap with matching gold pin buckle.
All other specs identical to the black dial version.
