Zenith's Defy Quintet Steals the Show At LVMH Watch Week 2026

Five new Defy releases demonstrate how 57 years of design evolution can culminate in black ceramic, blue PVD, and architectural brilliance. Zenith arrived at LVMH Watch Week 2026 with laser focus—five timepieces, one collection, spanning six decades of design heritage. The Defy quintet showcases CEO Benoît de Clerck's strategic vision: strengthen the brand's most distinctive line through varied expressions while maintaining architectural coherence. From a faithful 1969 revival to a skeletonized tourbillon rendered in rose gold and electric blue, the lineup demonstrates mastery over materials, finishing techniques, and the delicate balance between vintage charm and contemporary execution.

Black Ceramic Meets Gold Movement: Defy Skyline Skeleton
The standout performer is the Defy Skyline Skeleton in black ceramic—a combination that elevates the integrated-bracelet sport watch segment to new heights. While skeletonized movements and black ceramic aren't novel individually, their pairing with a gold-toned El Primero 3620 SK caliber creates an aesthetic impact that rivals watches priced significantly higher. The 41mm case and bracelet showcase contrasting satin and polished finishes on ceramic—a technically demanding process given the material's hardness. The gold-colored movement visible through dual sapphire crystals provides warmth against the black backdrop, transforming what could be a conventional sport watch into something decidedly upscale.

The movement hides an intriguing feature: a "lightning seconds" hand completing full rotations every 10 seconds rather than the standard 60. This is achieved through additional gearing that multiplies the escape wheel's speed sixfold, translating the 5 Hz movement (10 ticks per second) into a visual 1/10th second counter. It's not a chronograph function, but rather a playful horological detail that complements the watch's bold aesthetic. At approximately USD 20,000, the piece occupies unique territory. Competitors at this price point typically offer steel or titanium cases with standard movements. Here, buyers receive black ceramic construction, integrated bracelet, skeletonized architecture, and 55 hours of power reserve—a compelling value proposition in an increasingly crowded segment.

Reference: 97.9001.3620/79.R943
Movement: El Primero 3620 SK automatic, 36,000 VpH (5Hz), 55-hour power reserve
Case: Black ceramic, 41mm, 100m water resistance
Price: CHF 16,900 / EUR 19,100 / USD 18,900

Rose Gold and Blue PVD: Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton
For the first time, Zenith pairs a fully skeletonized movement with the Defy Skyline Tourbillon, creating the collection's pinnacle expression. Limited to 50 pieces, this reference combines rose gold case and bracelet architecture with an electric blue PVD-treated movement—a color scheme that balances luxury with contemporary sensibility. The El Primero 3630 SK caliber features bridges and mainplate entirely coated in blue PVD, then selectively polished to reveal rhodium-plated, beveled edges underneath. This labor-intensive finishing creates visual depth while maintaining the clean, geometric aesthetic Zenith favors over traditional decorative techniques.

The movement finishing deliberately skews modern rather than classical. Sharp beveling replaces the flowing, rounded edges typical of dress watches, aligning with both brand identity and watch style. That said, the gold tourbillon bridge receives high-level traditional finishing, demonstrating Zenith's capability when refinement is required. The one-minute tourbillon cage comprises 56 components and sits prominently at 6 o'clock, while the solid gold oscillating weight visible through the sapphire caseback bears satin finishes. The movement delivers 50 hours of power reserve operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour.

Reference: 97.9002.3630/79.R943
Movement: El Primero 3630 SK automatic, 36,000 VpH (5Hz), 50-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon at 6 o'clock (56 components)
Case: 18k rose gold, 41mm, 100m water resistance
Dial: Blue openworked with gold-plated, faceted hour markers and hands
Price: EUR 102,800
Limited Edition: 50 pieces

Heritage Reborn: Defy Revival A3643
While modern Defy Skyline references subtly integrate their 12-sided bezels within angular case architecture, vintage models from the late 1960s presented a different story. Early references like the A3642 and A3691 featured multi-faceted bezels that contrasted sharply against smaller cases and less aggressive bracelet designs. The A3643, originally produced from 1969 to approximately 1975, exemplifies this aesthetic tension. Its 14-sided bezel sits atop an octagonal case paired with a ladder-style bracelet that reads more traditional than contemporary integrated designs. This juxtaposition creates the quirky, period-correct character that makes vintage Defy models compelling.

The sunburst silver dial demonstrates that vibrant colors aren't prerequisites for attractiveness. Large hour markers feature two-step construction: metal inner sections surrounded by black lacquer outer rings. The seconds hand's rectangular tip filled with bright orange paint provides the era's signature eccentric touch. Powering the 37mm stainless steel case is the Elite 670 automatic movement, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with 50 hours of power reserve. The oscillating weight displays Côtes de Genève finishing visible through the solid caseback. Water resistance reaches 30 atmospheres (300m), and date indication appears at 4:30. Including the A3643 in the catalog serves dual purposes: it illustrates how Defy design language evolved across six decades, and it confirms that modern interpretations aren't inherently inferior to vintage—they simply serve different aesthetic preferences.

Reference: 05.9643.670/01.I001
Movement: Elite 670 automatic, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), 50-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date at 4:30
Case: Stainless steel, 37mm, 300m water resistance
Dial: Sunray silver with rhodium-plated faceted markers
Strap: Stainless steel "Ladder" bracelet

Total Stealth: Defy Skyline Chronograph in Black Ceramic
After the more visually striking pieces, Zenith offers subtler expressions for collectors preferring understated wrist presence. The all-black Defy Skyline Chronograph represents total monochrome execution—case, dial, and bracelet constructed entirely from black ceramic. The permanent color advantage eliminates concerns about surface treatment degradation. The entire 42mm case and bracelet receive contrasting matte and polished finishes, a combination requiring significant technical expertise given ceramic's hardness and brittleness.

The gradient grey starry sky pattern dial adds depth without introducing contrasting colors, while rhodium-plated hour markers and hands coated with Super-LumiNova SLN C1 ensure legibility. The caseback reveals the El Primero 3600 automatic movement with satin-finished oscillating weight. Functional capabilities include 1/10th second chronograph measurement (central hand completing full rotations in 10 seconds), 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock, 60-second counter at 3 o'clock, small seconds at 9 o'clock, and date indication at 4:30. The movement operates at 36,000 vibrations per hour with 60 hours of power reserve and 100m water resistance.

Reference: 97.9004.3600/79.R950
Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic, 36,000 VpH (5Hz), 60-hour power reserve
Case: Black ceramic, 42mm, 100m water resistance
Dial: Gradient grey starry sky pattern
Strap: Black ceramic bracelet plus black rubber strap option

Refined Femininity: Defy Skyline 36
The midsized Defy Skyline 36 pivots from the flashy pastel pink and turquoise of earlier launches toward understated sophistication. The new silver-toned sunray-patterned dial provides generous canvas for the star motif to express itself across both plain and diamond-set bezel variants. The 36mm stainless steel case suits unisex positioning, powered by the Elite 670 automatic movement (28,800 VpH, 50-hour power reserve). The star-shaped oscillating weight receives satin finishing visible through the sapphire caseback. Functions include central hours, minutes, and seconds, plus date indication at 3 o'clock, with 100m water resistance. The diamond-set version features 52 VVS brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 1.00 carat set into the bezel. Both variants include stainless steel integrated bracelet and black rubber strap with starry-sky pattern, each fitted with folding clasps.

Reference: 16.9000.670/01.R940 (plain bezel) / 16.9000.670/01.R941 (diamond bezel)
Movement: Elite 670 automatic, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), 50-hour power reserve
Case: Stainless steel, 36mm, 100m water resistance
Bezel: Plain or 52 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.00ct total)
Dial: Silver-toned sunray pattern
Price: EUR 9,500 (plain) / EUR 13,500 (diamond)