Is Modernizing Icons A Step Towards Evolution Or Overkill?
6 min read
An iconic watch is more than just a timepiece; it’s a statement of history, craftsmanship, and cultural significance. Although often a term used too loosely nowadays, a true icon is defined by its distinctive aesthetics, technological innovations, and cultural impact, one transcends trends to become a benchmark in horology. Whether it’s the Rolex Submariner’s association with deep-sea diving, the Omega Speedmaster’s journey to the Moon, or the Cartier Tank’s Art Deco elegance, these watches not only define their brands but also shape the industry. Their continued desirability among collectors and enthusiasts cements their legacy, making them more than just instruments of timekeeping—they become pieces of history on the wrist.
For watch brands, modernizing an icon—like updating the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Santos de Cartier or the Omega Speedmaster—can be a double-edged sword. If done right, it reinvigorates interest, attracts new buyers, and ensures relevance in a changing market. If done poorly, it alienates loyalists and dilutes brand heritage.
Lately, we've seen several iconic watches get a fresh lease on life, and the response has been overwhelmingly positive. Take the new Piaget Polo or the Vacheron Constantin 222—both modern reinterpretations that have been embraced with open arms. It’s not just the big maisons either, in the independent world, watches like ANDERSEN Genève's Worldtimer continue to evolve while staying true to their 1980s heritage.This raises an interesting question: How far can you modernize a classic before it loses its soul?
The Royal Oak
Let's start with one of the most iconic sports watches - The Royal Oak. Audemars Piguet has been writing its legend since 1875 through the legacy of Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, two brilliant watchmakers. Almost a 100 years later with the introduction of the Royal Oak in 1972 inspired by the imagination of The Gerald Genta, this model has written some of the finest chapters in the company’s history.
Why is this watch an icon?
At the 1971 Basel Fair, Audemars Piguet's managing director contacted Gérald Genta, an independent designer under contract, requesting a modern, water-resistant sports watch—essentially an all-purpose timepiece. Drawing inspiration from the eight screws and rubber joint of a diving suit helmet that protects underwater workers, Genta created the design for an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws, an integrated bracelet with tapered links, and a flat sapphire crystal (a novel feature at the time). The Royal Oak was born.
As Genta's era came to an end, Jacqueline Dimier took over as the company's designer and introduced the only rectangular version of the Royal Oak, the Ref 6006. It featured cross-cut edges and four studs on the case middle, replacing the screws, and a quartz movement replacing the previous automatic caliber 2121. From the early 1980s onward, the Royal Oak continued to evolve, with the introduction of perpetual calendars, tourbillons, open-worked designs, and even two new quartz calendar versions, the 6131 and 6048.
The Evolution
In 1993, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Royal Oak Offshore, a bold reinterpretation of Gérald Genta’s original design, featuring a robust 42mm case with a 15mm thickness. This modernized version introduced several enhancements, including a chronograph function, curved bracelet links, rubber accents, a distinctive crown guard, and an anti-magnetic shield for the movement. Initially met with mixed reactions, the Royal Oak Offshore soon found a loyal following, particularly among younger watch enthusiasts drawn to its contemporary and aggressive aesthetic.
To mark the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Concept in 2002, inspired by futuristic concept cars. Utilizing advanced aeronautical materials, this ultra-modern evolution maintained the luxury sports watch ethos of the 1972 original. Over the past 50 years, the Royal Oak has evolved through various sizes, materials, and complications, cementing its place as a cornerstone of Audemars Piguet’s technical and design innovation.
In 2012, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak ref. 15202, a tribute to the original ref. 5402ST. Featuring a 39mm case, petite tapisserie dial, and display caseback, it closely resembled its 1970s predecessor. For the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet added the “AP” signature above 6 o’clock, echoing the original. Powered by the ultra-thin Calibre 2121, it remained just 8.1mm thick. Despite being marketed as “Extra-Thin,” collectors continued calling it the “Jumbo.” Over time, Audemars Piguet refined details like a black date wheel for colored dials and a double-deployant clasp. Initially available in steel and rose gold, yellow gold followed in 2017, and titanium-platinum in 2018. In 2021, the Maison announced its discontinuation in 2022, paving the way for a new reference.
More than 50 years since its debut, the Royal Oak has evolved through over 500 variations, transforming from a disruptive design into a true icon. Yet, its defining aesthetic elements—the tonneau-shaped case, octagonal bezel, and signature hexagonal screws—have remained unchanged. The integrated bracelet, crafted in stainless steel and precious metals, now features a more pronounced taper, with thinner, lighter links for enhanced comfort and elegance.
In 2024, Audemars Piguet brings back its beloved Mini Royal Oak collection with a trio of petite timepieces that blend heritage with modern artistry. Drawing inspiration from the original 20mm Mini Royal Oak of 1997, these new models challenge ideas of proportion, design, and performance. The fusion of Gérald Genta's iconic octagonal geometry and the sparkling "Frosted Gold" finish creates a captivating interplay of light and shimmer.
Despite decades of evolution, the Royal Oak remains deeply rooted in the vision Gérald Genta introduced in 1972. Every modern reinterpretation, from material innovations to refined proportions, respects the original’s bold spirit while embracing contemporary advancements. The essence of the Royal Oak—its octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet—remains untouched, proving that true icons don’t need reinvention, only thoughtful refinement. By balancing heritage with innovation, Audemars Piguet ensures that the Royal Oak remains as relevant today as it was half a century ago, a testament to timeless design and enduring craftsmanship.
Should Vintage Watches Be Modernized?
And so we stand at a crossroads of the eternal debate—should vintage watches be modernized? Purists clutch their loupe in horror, while contemporary collectors nod in quiet approval. My take? Why not? If we look back at the golden era of watchmaking, what do we see? Slimmer cases, cleaner dials, and an elegance that didn’t need a manual to appreciate. Today, as life gets simpler (at least in theory), why complicate watches? That being said, kudos to brands spending millions on innovation and research. High horology is still a playground for the bold.
But let’s be honest—trends are shifting towards minimalism. People want refinement, not an engineering thesis on the wrist.The real question is, how much of an icon should you modernize? Is it a genuine evolution or just a marketing exercise? A well-executed refresh can reignite love for a classic, but go too far, and you risk alienating the very enthusiasts who kept the legend alive.At the end of the day, modernization is not just welcome—it’s necessary. The watch community has embraced it, provided it doesn’t go too far. After all, a vintage-inspired watch should feel like a respectful homage, not a complete rewrite.
