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What Makes A Watch An Icon?

THM Desk
4 Dec 2024 |
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The definition of an iconic watch is, of course, highly subjective, and a consensus on what makes a watch iconic is just about impossible to achieve. However, most of us likely agree on several key points. An iconic watch should be timeless in its appeal, influential in its design, and impactful in its market presence. Ideally, an iconic watch should also be one that has remained true to its original conception throughout the years and recognizable by even the most casual of watch enthusiasts. Often, a watch becomes iconic when it becomes associated with a celebrity or other historical figure, and some achieve iconic status simply by being the trailblazer for a certain complication or now considered standard function or element.

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L: The first Patek Philippe Calatrava launched in 1931, R: The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227-J launched in 2021

When Patek Philippe unveiled its now iconic motto “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation,” it perfectly encapsulated the idea of how certain watches transcend time. These timepieces go beyond functional objects; they are embodiments of enduring craftsmanship and legacy. They connect the present to the past and even the future, creating a bridge that links generations, cultures, and moments in history.

At their core, luxury watches are built to last in every sense of the word. Their durability is matched by the innovation and artistry that go into their creation. A Patek Philippe Calatrava, for example, is not merely a watch; it is a masterpiece of minimalism and precision, representing the height of horological excellence for nearly a century. The enduring appeal of such timepieces lies in their ability to remain relevant regardless of how fleeting trends, technology, or personal preferences evolve. More than that, these watches carry stories. A vintage Rolex Daytona might evoke memories of Paul Newman, a man whose personal style helped elevate the watch to legendary status. Similarly, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak might remind its owner of Gerald Genta’s daring innovation during a time of uncertainty in the watch industry. 

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L: An early sketch of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak designed by Gerald Genta, R: The latest Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie

Cartier has enjoyed a worldwide reputation as the “King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings” since its founding in Paris. It is also responsible for some of the most iconic and influential timepieces in history and continues to build on that legacy to this day. What could be more important to horological history than the very first timepiece built expressly for aviation as well as the first wristwatch made to be worn by a man? As far as Cartier goes, the Santos is widely considered the most iconic creations from the Maison. Every scratch, patina, or inherited engraving tells a tale, making the watch not just a possession but a repository of life’s moments.

The ability of watches to transcend time is also deeply intertwined with the human desire for permanence. In an era where obsolescence often feels inevitable, a well-crafted watch stands apart as a testament to stability. It is an object that resists the ephemeral, a reminder that while the world changes, some things endure. Moreover, watches that transcend time aren’t bound by geography or culture. From the delicate, hand-painted dials of enamel pocket watches crafted centuries ago to the modern marvels of Grand Complications, these creations resonate with enthusiasts worldwide. They symbolize a shared appreciation for precision and the beauty of slowing down in a fast-paced world.

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L: The evolution of the Cartier Santos from sketch to reality

These watches embody a concept that is often forgotten in today’s disposable culture: stewardship. As Patek Philippe’s motto reminds us, a truly great watch is not something to own forever but to care for until it finds its place with the next generation. It’s an ethos that extends beyond the watch itself to encompass a mindset of preserving and cherishing craftsmanship and legacy.

Timeless watches often feature designs that transcend fleeting fashion trends. Their aesthetic appeal is rooted in classic elegance or innovative simplicity, ensuring they remain relevant regardless of changing styles. A perfect example is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or the Rolex Submariner. These watches have retained their iconic status by evolving subtly without losing their original identity. The Reverso has been an exceptional canvas for creativity; fiercely original, defiantly distinctive and always extraordinary. Whether draped in enamel, engravings or gemstones, the Reverso is unfailingly unique, representing the very best of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Since its creation in 1931, Reverso has created many timeless stories, establishing it as the icon of Jaeger-LeCoultre. 

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L: The first Reverso launched in 1931, R: The newly launched Pink Gold Openworked Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Another significant aspect is the legacy and heritage that these watches carry. Many watches that have stood the test of time are tied to historical milestones, cultural shifts, or significant events. Wearing such a piece connects the wearer to a rich narrative, adding layers of meaning to the ownership experience. For instance, the Omega Speedmaster, known as the "Moonwatch," is forever linked to mankind’s first steps on the moon.

Furthermore, the long-standing production of certain models highlights the innovation and adaptability of brands. Watches like the Lange 1 by A. Lange & Söhne or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak continue to evolve with modern technology while maintaining the core elements that made them iconic. This balance of tradition and innovation cements their place in horological history. Sometimes these watches become valuable investments as well. Their rarity, demand, and historical significance often cause their value to be appreciated. Collectors and enthusiasts regard these timepieces as assets that are both functional and emotionally rewarding.

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The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1921 then and now

In essence, watches that stand the test of time are more than accessories; they are enduring testaments to human ingenuity, art, and the unyielding pursuit of excellence. Just like art, these watches too evoke emotions and when a product generates sentimental value, it is deserving of the status of an icon.