The world of horology gathered once again in Geneva for the annual Watch Days event, where luxury watchmakers unveil their latest timepieces. This year’s edition, held from August 29th to September 1st, saw several heavy hitters in the industry present new and exciting additions to their collections. From delicate dress watches to rugged sports models, here’s the roundup of new releases which catered to watch enthusiasts of all styles.
1. Ulysse Nardin Blast Wheel Marquetry
With the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, Ulysse Nardin has once again affirmed its position at the cutting-edge of haute horlogerie. The independent watch Manufacture is renowned for its pioneering use of silicon and other high-tech materials, as well as its disruptive, modern aesthetic. This latest creation takes Ulysse Nardin’s visionary approach to new heights, with a mesmerizing blue marquetry dial made of silicon, an array of floating mechanisms, and a radical case design.
2. Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40
Catering to an audience of automotive purists, Laurent Ferrier’s Série Atelier collection gets a new addition: the Sport Auto 40 at Geneva Watch Days 2023. Founders of the brand, François Servanin and Laurent Ferrier crossed the checkered flag in their Porsche 935 Turbo at the biggest motorsport spectacle, the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979 placed third overall, an exceptional feat for an amateur team racing against 60 competitors. The latest Sport Auto 40 draws inspiration from the Porsche as it is dressed in its green color.
Frederique Constant celebrated 35 years of Swiss watchmaking excellence in 2023 with an exciting new release – the Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture at Geneva Watch Days 2023. Housed in a refined 40mm case, this timepiece debuts Maison’s 31st in-house manufactured movement, bringing useful complications and mechanical ingenuity together in a vintage-inspired design.
4. URWERK UR-100V Stardust
Geneva-based independent watchmaker URWERK unveiled its latest haute horlogerie creation – the UR-100V Stardust, a dazzling twist on their UR-100 line at Geneva Watch Days 2023. This avant-garde timepiece contains over 400 VVS1 diamonds totaling nearly 2 carats, set in an intricate “snow setting” across the steel case.
5. DOXA Sub 300 Beta Sharkhunter
Crafted with a fusion of engineering mastery and aesthetic finesse, Doxa presented its SUB 300 Beta Sharkhunter for the very first time in a black and gold color scheme. Designed to withstand the crushing pressures of the abyss, this timepiece is encased in a 42.5mm black ceramic case with the bezel and crown in 18K 3N gold.
6. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold, Serpenti Misteriosi & Monete Catene Secret Watch
Bulgari launched some exciting pieces across its different collections. The new Octo Finissimo models combine lightweight anthracite carbon with brilliant gold accents. The carbon is used for the case, strap, and dial, creating a high-tech, futuristic aesthetic. Touches of gold on the hands, indices, crown, and caseback screws add Bvlgari’s signature luxurious flair. This fusion was first pioneered by Bvlgari in 1993 and represents the Maison’s uniquely creative vision.
Next up, the mystifying Serpenti Misteriosi flaunts forbidden fruit: sinuous scales of black lacquer and rose gold, primed to entice with a harvest of diamonds. Its hypnotic gaze conceals a secret – a tiny ticking heart in sync with your own. Past the swaying emerald eyes, a treasure awaits behind diamond fangs.
And lastly, The Monete Catene Secret watches! Evoking the grandeur of antiquity, precious antique coins elevate the sculptural watch cases to another plane. Bathed in gold and diamonds, these high jewelry timepieces gracefully embrace the wrist with supple chain bracelets reminiscent of Bvlgari’s iconic 1940s curb chains. The Monete Catene Dual Time cuff also pays homage to a 1970s Bvlgari watch design through the lens of high jewelry. Nestled within these precious creations, a treasure of mechanical miniaturization: the Bvlgari Piccolissimo movement.
7. Girard Perregaux Laureato Absolute 8Tech
Girard-Perregaux has embarked on an unceasing journey of pushing the boundaries with pioneering materials. Introducing the latest gem to the Laureato Absolute collection launched in 2019, the Laureato Absolute 8Tech timepiece not only reaffirms this legacy but also harnesses the wealth of expertise accumulated by the Manufacture. Through the ingenious application of 8Tech, a revolutionary methodology, the watch’s case is meticulously fashioned from octagonal carbon components, resulting in an enchantingly irregular structural tapestry.
8. MB&F HM9 Sapphire Vision
MB&F creator Maximilian Büsser called the HM9’s engine “the most beautiful movement we’ve created to date” despite its startling exterior. A curved bubbled, and precisely fitting three-part sapphire crystal and precious metal outer hull is sealed using a specialized blend of a patented three-dimensional gasket and a high-tech compound bonding method. Data is channeled into a differential by two completely separate cantilevered balances, which unites two heartbeats into a single coherent time-pulse. The energy and information current from the engine is effectively turned via a 90° angle by ultra-precise conical gears to supply the time display on a sapphire crystal dial with Super-LumiNova markings.
9. De Bethune BD28XP
De Bethune has long been renowned for its mastery of blued steel, achieved through carefully controlling the natural oxidation process to produce a mesmerizing depth of color. Each DB28XP Kind of Blue dial undergoes this transformation, making every watch a one-of-a-kind work of art.
10. Konstantin Chaykin Kolobok
The newest creation from Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin brings a beloved fairy tale character to life. His new limited-edition wristwatch, titled “Kolobok,” features an anthropomorphic dial in the form of the cheerful title character. This innovative timepiece playfully combines whimsy and fine craftsmanship.
11. Corum Concept Watch
This visionary Concept Watch dauntlessly redefines the frontiers of both design and technology. It stands as a symphony of artistry, melding the grace of organic contours with the embrace of sustainable materials. An embodiment of circular, nature-inspired forms, the meticulously sculpted watch case emerges from the crucible of recycled titanium grade 5. This masterstroke simultaneously underscores Corum’s dedication to the custodianship of our environment while imprinting an unparalleled aesthetic signature upon the timepiece’s visage.
12. Arnold & Son Perpetual 38 Mintnight
Putting the moon at the pride of the place at the front, Arnold & Son unveils the latest iteration of its Perpetual Moon 38 at the Geneva Watch Days 2023 in a new mint green hue. The Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight expresses a romantic complication and exhibits an astronomical allure with its hallmark grandest moon phase. This captivating women’s timepiece offers a terrestrial perspective of the shining satellite. Within this elegant series, the amalgamation of diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and ruthenium crystals finds its exquisite expression in this newest addition.
13. Angelus Chronodate Titanium
The Chronodate family at Angelus gets a new addition, a storm blue version of the pointer date chronograph presented at Geneva Watch Days 2023. Depicting the colors of a stormy sky, this timepiece in gray and blue hues comes with a 42.5mm case and a titanium bracelet both featuring a satin-finish.
14. Oris Sustainable Timepieces
Swiss watchmaker Oris is riding high into Geneva Watch Days 2023 with three exciting new watch releases – Oris x Bracenet Aquis Date, AquisPro 4000M, and the Artelier S. As part of the brand’s “Change for the Better” initiative, Oris is strengthening its commitment to environmental causes by partnering with organizations that are driving positive change.
The headliner is the Oris x Bracenet, a special edition Aquis Date diving watch featuring a spectacular dial made of recycled “ghost nets.” Ghost nets are abandoned or lost fishing nets that drift through the oceans catching and killing marine life. Social enterprise Bracenet collects these nets and upcycles them into fashion accessories and now, striking watch dials. Each dial is uniquely colorful and made by melting down net fragments without any additives or glues and is available in 43.50mm and 36.50mm stainless steel cases.
Next is the AquisPro 4000m, the most water-resistant diver’s watch they have ever made. It has a titanium case that can withstand pressures up to 400 bar, equivalent to 4,000 meters depth. The watch features Oris-patented technology like the Rotation Safety System bezel, designed in collaboration with professional divers to lock the bezel securely in place. It also has our security folding clasp extension system, allowing easy on-the-fly strap adjustment.
Lastly, they’re also delighted to introduce two new models to their beloved Artelier line. Keeping with Oris’s design ethos, the Artelier S features only essential elements. The smooth 38mm stainless steel case delivers comfort and practicality, while the lugs curve elegantly into the leather strap. Tapered hands have a filigree lume fill, and hour markers are trimmed tight to the edge of the deep black or mature forest green dials, ensuring legibility without intruding.
15. Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe
Greubel Forsey ushers in a new era of carbon timepieces, seamlessly integrating this exceptional material into their esteemed collections. The Maison takes the Double Balancier Convexe to the next level with the launch of a new carbon timepiece limited to 22 pieces. The carbon infusion for the Double Balancier Convexe adds an ethereal lightness and fortified durability, captivating collectors and connoisseurs alike.
No matter one’s preferences, there was a beautiful new timepiece for all wrists. In a city renowned for its watchmaking tradition, the 2023 Geneva Watch Days highlighted both the rich history and innovative future of the craft.