Are Thin Watches Making A Comeback? Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 660 Leads The Trend

In the age of Ozempic and other GLP pills where bodies are slimming down, wrist watches too can’t resist the latest trend. Just a few days ago Vacheron Constantin dropped a new variant of the Overseas Master Ultra Thin which boasted of 8.1mm thickness. Brands like Bulgari, Piaget, Konstantin Chaykin have been in a bid to secure the title for the thinnest mechanical watch since a long time with varying results. Today Christopher Ward released the new The Twelve 660. While it might not be shattering previously held records anytime soon, The Twelve had dramatically reduced its size in comparision with previous models. 

Beginning with the case size, Christopher Ward has managed to take its 38mm The Twelve case and bring its thickness down from 9.95mm to just 6.6mm, (hence ‘660’) a mere 1.5mm thicker than the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Auto, a once world record breaking automatic watch. However, the way this case has been constructed, it feels even thinner than that. Thanks to the bezel and caseback being slightly smaller in diameter than the case middle, the perceived thickness of this watch is greatly reduced, especially when on the wrist.

The dial is another example of refinement and stripping everything back to the bare essentials. It’s perhaps best to describe this dial by what’s not there than what is. Gone is the seconds hand, gone is the date window, and gone is the Christopher Ward criss-cross texture. Instead we have have a simple two-hand display, surrounded by baton markers that double up at 12 and a soft grained texture to the flat dial. In terms of design you have the twelve sided bezel with a brushed top surface and polished bevels, a pattern that is continued throughout the entire case and bracelet. 

Speaking of the bracelet, it has been significantly altered so it can fit this new, thinner model. The links only measure 2.9mm in thickness and articulate wonderfully. But it is the clasp where the brilliance appears. The clasp used on the original models would have measured thicker than this watch head, and so they needed to find a new design that could keep it balanced while on your wrist. So the new butterfly clasp that operates through push buttons folds elegantly in on itself from each side so that the total height of the clasp is just 4.2mm.

Helping to keep this watch as thin as possible and ticking away is the manually wound Sellita SW210. This super thin movement offers 45 hours of power reserve and has been decently modified for Christopher Ward’s use. The bridges that hold the power train have been skeletonised, allowing you a clear view of the key components that deliver energy to the balance. The finishing is fitting for this watch and help to elevate your experience when viewing the movement through that big sapphire display caseback.

There is also a rather exciting black-on-black model that has a full DLC-coated case and bracelet that is then paired with a black dial. A real stealth piece in that colour combination and thinness. Its flat and wide dimension ratio means it hugs the wrist, hardly protruding off it with the slightly articulated and slanted end links meaning the 43.3mm lug-to-lug measurement fits comfortable across any wrist size.

Turn the watch over and we see the twelve-sided caseback reflecting the design of the bezel is secured with screws and features a large sapphire display window. This is to show off the manual wind movement inside that fills this case from edge to edge. Finishing things off with a well-sized knurled crown, a smart choice by the design team at Ward as there is often the temptation to put an extra small crown on these thin watches that are then impossible to use, but as you’re going to be winding this watch relatively frequently, you need a crown that is easy and comfortable to use.

Thinness in the watch world is not a new thing, and we’ve seen countless world records be broken over the last ten years in this pursuit for the sveltest timepiece in every category. And having a thin watch has always been seen as a flex by every brand, being able to fit all it takes to make a watch tick accurately in a small a space as possible, while also designing the most elegant watch they possibly can. While the new Christopher Ward The Twelve 660 might not be breaking any world records, it’s a solid attempt by the British brand to deliver a slimmer watch without compromising on quality. It’s tough, it’s elegant, and there’s much to be said for the zen joy of having just the two hands; a reminder not to take life and the passing of time too seriously.

Price: Rs 1,76,990 Approx