Geneva Watch Days 2025: Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Reaches New Heights With Artist Collaborations And Marble Mastery

Geneva Watch Days continues to establish itself as the horological industry's most accessible and intimate showcase, offering watch enthusiasts direct access to the latest innovations without the formality of traditional trade shows. Since its inception in 2020 under the guidance of Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of LVMH Watches and CEO of Bulgari, the event has evolved into a crucial platform for both established manufactures and independent watchmakers. At the 2025 edition, Bulgari delivered one of the most compelling presentations of the event, centered around their groundbreaking Octo Finissimo collection. Bulgari's novelties at Geneva Watch Days 2025 encompasses four distinct timepieces that showcase the brand's technical mastery and artistic vision: two interpretations of the legendary Octo Finissimo and two pioneering Bulgari Bronzo models that expand the Bulgari Aluminium story.

The Octo Finissimo Retrospective: Eleven Years of Record-Breaking Innovation
Bulgari's presentation at Geneva Watch Days 2025 marks a significant milestone with the first comprehensive retrospective of the Octo Finissimo saga. This educational exhibition traced the collection's evolution from its 2014 debut through its most defining achievements, documenting an unprecedented journey that has resulted in ten world records over eleven years. The Octo Finissimo's distinctive octagonal case architecture draws direct inspiration from the Basilica of Maxentius in Rome, transforming classical Roman geometry into a contemporary horological statement. This design philosophy has proven remarkably versatile, serving as a canvas for both technical complications and artistic collaborations.

Key milestones highlighted in the retrospective include:

The groundbreaking 2014 Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with its ultra-slim BVL 268 calibre measuring just 1.95mm
The 2017 Octo Finissimo Automatic at 5.15mm thick, exemplifying the marriage of Italian design and Swiss mechanical expertise
The prestigious 2021 Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar in titanium, winner of the Aiguille d'Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, maintaining its position as the world's thinnest perpetual calendar at 5.80mm The technically ambitious Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon introduced at Watches and Wonders 2025, achieving a remarkable case thickness of just 1.85mm. 

Bulgari Geneva Watch Days 2025 Releases: The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari
Among the best Bulgari watches Geneva Watch Days 2025 showcased, the Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari represents a masterful fusion of horological excellence and contemporary art. This collaboration emerged from extensive dialogue between Bulgari's Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and the renowned South Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan. Lee Ufan's artistic philosophy centers on the interplay between perception and presence, exploring connections between human consciousness, nature, and the universe. His signature motif—the contrast between a static rock and infinite mirror reflections—finds profound expression in this timepiece's design language.

Bulgari Geneva Watch Days 2025 Specs: Technical Excellence
Reference: 104132
The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari houses the manufacture BVL 138 automatic movement with micro-rotor, measuring an exceptionally thin 2.23mm. This calibre, decorated by hand with traditional Côtes de Genève, chamfering, and perlage finishing, provides 60 hours of power reserve operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.

The 40mm titanium case, hand-filed to achieve a unique surface treatment, measures just 5.5mm in thickness. The stainless steel bezel receives a sunray polish finish, while the sandblasted titanium crown features a distinctive black ceramic insert. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The dial's mirroring effect serves as the centerpiece of Lee Ufan's artistic vision, contained within black hands that provide subtle contrast. The transparent caseback bears Lee Ufan's handwritten signature alongside the limited edition numbering, emphasizing each piece's status as a genuine work of art. Limited to 150 pieces worldwide, each Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari receives individual hand-finishing, ensuring no two timepieces are identical. The integrated titanium bracelet continues the case's unique surface treatment philosophy. While Bulgari Geneva Watch Days 2025 price information wasn't disclosed during the presentation, industry sources suggest positioning consistent with other limited Octo Finissimo artistic collaborations. Bulgari Geneva Watch Days 2025 boutique availability is expected to commence in the fourth quarter of 2025, with select Bulgari boutiques worldwide receiving allocation.

The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble: Italian Heritage in Hardstone
The second highlight among Bulgari Geneva Watch Days 2025 releases demonstrates the manufacture's material expertise through an extraordinary technical challenge: crafting a watch dial from marble. This achievement required overcoming marble's inherent characteristics—while strong in raw form, the stone becomes delicate and brittle when sliced to horological dimensions.

Reference: 104257
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble showcases deep blue "Blu Incanto" marble sourced from Italy's finest quarries, creating a dial that celebrates the material forever entwined with Roman culture. The 40mm extra-thin satin-polished platinum case measures just 5.35mm thick, housing the hand-wound BVL 268 calibre. This movement, identical to the original 2014 Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, measures 1.95mm thick and provides 52 hours of power reserve. The flying tourbillon complication operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, visible through the marble dial's center aperture. Grey hands and indexes provide optimal legibility against the blue marble surface, while the numbered polished white gold crown features a black ceramic insert. The blue alligator leather strap with polished platinum pin buckle completes the classical aesthetic. Limited to 30 pieces, this model follows Bulgari's earlier "Verde Alpi" green marble version introduced earlier in 2025, paired with a yellow gold case.

Bulgari Bronzo: A Revolutionary Chapter in the Aluminium Story
Perhaps the most unexpected development in Bulgari Geneva Watch Days 2025 novelties came through the introduction of bronze to the Bulgari Aluminium collection. This material choice represents a fundamental shift in the collection's philosophy while maintaining its sport-chic DNA established since 1998. Jonathan Brinbaum, Managing Director of Bulgari Watches, explained the strategic thinking: "The essence of the Bulgari Bvlgari lies in the alloy of materials. Initially designed in aluminum and rubber, the model here explores bronze, an association of historical significance in watchmaking, rarely used by Bulgari. This material is not only resistant but, above all, alive. Over time, its patina will evolve, making each watch unique and personal."

Bulgari Bronzo GMT: The Traveler's Companion
Reference: 104241
The Bulgari Bronzo GMT addresses the needs of frequent travelers through its dual-time complication, housed within a 40mm sandblasted bronze case measuring 9.70mm thick. The black rubber bezel provides functional contrast while maintaining the collection's signature aesthetic. The automatic calibre B192 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, providing 50 hours of power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, central seconds, GMT indication, and date display. The matte black dial features a 24-hour disc with day-night indicator, complemented by white indexes for optimal legibility. Rose gold-plated brass hands receive sandblasting and Super-LumiNova treatment, ensuring readability in all conditions. The GMT hand, similarly treated, provides clear second timezone indication. A date window at 3 o'clock completes the functional layout. The black rubber strap incorporates sandblasted bronze links, extending the case's material philosophy while ensuring wearing comfort through a hook and loop buckle system.

Bulgari Bronzo Chronograph: Precision in Motion
Reference: 104242
For enthusiasts drawn to precision timing, the Bulgari Bronzo Chronograph offers comprehensive chronograph functionality within a 41mm sandblasted bronze case. At 12.35mm thick, this model houses the automatic calibre B381, providing hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph function, and date indication. The movement operates at standard frequency with 42 hours of power reserve. Chronograph activation occurs through sandblasted titanium pushers with black DLC treatment, matching the crown's finish. The matte black dial features distinctive azure circular chronograph counters, creating visual depth against the tachymeter scale. Rose gold-plated brass hands throughout receive identical sandblasting and luminous treatment, maintaining consistency across all timing functions. The date window's positioning at 4/5 o'clock accommodates the chronograph subdials' layout, demonstrating thoughtful design integration.

The presentation represents a masterclass in strategic product development, addressing multiple market segments through technically diverse offerings. The Octo Finissimo collaborations continue establishing the collection as a legitimate canvas for artistic expression, while the Bulgari Bronzo models expand the Aluminium collection's material vocabulary in unexpected directions. Industry reception proved overwhelmingly positive, with particular appreciation for the marble dial's technical achievement and the bronze models' strategic positioning. The Lee Ufan collaboration garnered significant attention from collectors specializing in artist-watch partnerships.

Market Positioning and Collector Perspective
These Geneva Watch Days 2025 releases by Bulgari demonstrate the manufacture's sophisticated understanding of contemporary collecting trends. The artistic collaborations appeal to cultural enthusiasts seeking horological art objects, while the technical achievements satisfy complications collectors. The bronze introduction provides accessible entry into Bulgari's sport-luxury segment. For Indian market participants, price in India expectations suggest positioning consistent with existing Octo Finissimo offerings, with artistic collaborations commanding appropriate premiums. The bronze models likely represent more accessible pricing within Bulgari's portfolio.

Geneva Watch Days 2025 novelties availability follows the manufacture's established distribution strategy, with limited editions receiving careful allocation across global boutiques. The retrospective exhibition touring concept suggests continued market education efforts, supporting long-term brand building beyond immediate sales objectives. The presentation's educational component—particularly the detailed exploration of Octo Finissimo technical achievements—represents sophisticated brand storytelling that elevates product launches beyond mere commercial announcements. This successfully demonstrates the Manufacture's technical capabilities while advancing its artistic vision. The four new releases—spanning ultra-thin complications, artistic collaborations, and material innovations—establish clear product differentiation within increasingly competitive market segments.